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Is subsonic achieved with less powder, heavier bullet, or both? If it’s less powder it seems you’d need to bleed more gas from the barrel to achieve results similar to standard ammo.
 
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Anyone had any luck/experience with a AR10 308 suppressed using subsonic ammo? I'm having cycling issues.
First of all I am in NO WAY an AR guy but I will say I messed with some stuff with my can and here's what I found:
Full disclaimer I mostly use the subs for hunting on my own property and all my shots are 100yrds or less headshots so I usually only put one round down range at a time so if I have cycle issues its no biggie (as opposed to self defense)... Over 100 yards (my zero) subs drop like a rock as in 1.5 FEET at 150yrds and 3.5 FEET at 200... yes feet not inches!
On the range:
Can on would mostly cycle subs but not lockback bolt on the last round like regular stuff. Without the can on much higher incident of not enough back pressure to chamber next round (hangs almost at (just b4) ejection and feeding next). The heavier bullet I used the less occurrence of problem I had with subs like from my 150Gr to 165 to 180 or 200.
Never had to get to the replacing the gas block and re drilling holes some have talked about for two reasons...
1)if I have a need for defensive purposes it isn't my go to and I certainly would not be using subs and
2) I have a 95% cycle rate on the 180 grain 100 yard head shot and I don't like to clean 2 deer at the same time
 
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Is subsonic achieved with less powder, heavier bullet, or both? If it’s less powder it seems you’d need to bleed more gas from the barrel to achieve results similar to standard ammo.
Yes, it's both. It's a physics problem where a lot of factors come into play. Obviously there is only so much mass that can be moved with a lower charge so reducing that mass helps along with reducing the spring tension. If the spring tension is too low it can't move the bolt back and chamber another round.
 
I don't know how much you want to spend on this quest but a call to JP Rifles might be in order. They have a low mass bolt carrier and can tune a silent capture spring for you. You could end up with two silent capture springs that are real easy to switch out.
First of all I am in NO WAY an AR guy but I will say I messed with some stuff with my can and here's what I found:
Full disclaimer I mostly use the subs for hunting on my own property and all my shots are 100yrds or less headshots so I usually only put one round down range at a time so if I have cycle issues its no biggie (as opposed to self defense)... Over 100 yards (my zero) subs drop like a rock as in 1.5 FEET at 150yrds and 3.5 FEET at 200... yes feet not inches!
On the range:
Can on would mostly cycle subs but not lockback bolt on the last round like regular stuff. Without the can on much higher incident of not enough back pressure to chamber next round (hangs almost at (just b4) ejection and feeding next). The heavier bullet I used the less occurrence of problem I had with subs like from my 150Gr to 165 to 180 or 200.
Never had to get to the replacing the gas block and re drilling holes some have talked about for two reasons...
1)if I have a need for defensive purposes it isn't my go to and I certainly would not be using subs and
2) I have a 95% cycle rate on the 180 grain 100 yard head shot and I don't like to clean 2 deer at the same time


Thanks to both of you. I would love to be able to just switch the buffer and spring out when going subsonic but that's probably a pipe dream. It's not imperative that I get it working but when I'm challenged like this I tend to take it on (stupidly sometimes :)).

One thing I think may help is if I could purchase a new barrel with a carbine length gas setup. My current barrel is 18" with rifle length gas setup. I could go with the 16" carbine length. From my understanding the pressures are higher for longer which helps.

I may try a lighter spring and buffer to start with to see what happens. The bolt moves only about an inch presently. Then if that doesn't work move onto other stuff.

I have a 300B/O SBR (8" I think) and it cycles pretty good, only occasionally have a jam or it doesn't load the next round, usually after I have ran quite a few rounds through it and it's pretty dirty.

If I get crazy which I often do I may apply for the SBR stamp on the AR10 and get a short pistol barrel for it too.

Also, hell to the yes on bullet drop. I'm shooting iron sites right now but it appears I'm having to aim about 12" high on the subs at 100 yards.
 
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Thanks to both of you. I would love to be able to just switch the buffer and spring out when going subsonic but that's probably a pipe dream. It's not imperative that I get it working but when I'm challenged like this I tend to take it on (stupidly sometimes :)).

One thing I think may help is if I could purchase a new barrel with a carbine length gas setup. My current barrel is 18" with rifle length gas setup. I could go with the 16" carbine length. From my understanding the pressures are higher for longer which helps.

I may try a lighter spring and buffer to start with to see what happens. The bolt moves only about an inch presently. Then if that doesn't work move onto other stuff.

I have a 300B/O SBR (8" I think) and it cycles pretty good, only occasionally have a jam or it doesn't load the next round, usually after I have ran quite a few rounds through it and it's pretty dirty.

If I get crazy which I often do I may apply for the SBR stamp on the AR10 and get a short pistol barrel for it too.

Also, hell to the yes on bullet drop. I'm shooting iron sites right now but it appears I'm having to aim about 12" high on the subs at 100 yards.
If you're running a 300 BO you probably already know this but my first couple of AR builds were a major learning curve for things like break in period and running them wet as hell which was counterintuitive to what I had done all my life with firearms. The .308 gun (FN-FAL) I use the .30 can on likes a bit of oil but not as much as some of the other ARs I had especially during break-in and setup.
And this is completely a bad joke on my part but when I read that you were gonna get a SBR stamp for a pistol length AR10 with a can and subs... me: "That would look cool as hell but I hope he buys a brick and a golf ball so he can actually hit something over 10 feet away":eek:.
 
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If you're running a 300 BO you probably already know this but my first couple of AR builds were a major learning curve for things like break in period and running them wet as hell which was counterintuitive to what I had done all my life with firearms. The .308 gun (FN-FAL) I use the .30 can on likes a bit of oil but not as much as some of the other ARs I had especially during break-in and setup.
And this is completely a bad joke on my part but when I read that you were gonna get a SBR stamp for a pistol length AR10 with a can and subs... me: "That would look cool as hell but I hope he buys a brick and a golf ball so he can actually hit something over 10 feet away":eek:.
The cool factor would definitely be up there. I would probably dedicate it to suppressed subsonic. The dang gun is so freaking long with that 18" barrel and saker 7.62 suppressor. That 300 B/O is much more accurate than I had ever imagined with the can shooting suppressed. I'll see if I can find a pic or two.
 
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Is that the Aero M4 build kit? That thing is capable of fun things at a distance. I wouldn't screw that up with a shorter barrel. I've seen a couple shoot consistently around MOA. How's yours do?
It's the AR308 upper and lower from Aero Precision. The rest is a bunch of stuff I pulled together. Haven't really tested at a distance yet. I'm trying to figure out the optics right now. If I do something I'll probably build a second upper to experiment with.
 
Ya'll gonna shoot it? sorry. I see where you posted it shoots great. Are you reloading? Ammo for this caliber seems mucho expensive.

Ya, we are doing reloads. I have always wanted a reason to get into it and this gun convinced my wife that we should invest in it lol.
 
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