The Golf Thread

#11,251
#11,251
GAVol said:
I wouldn't touch a thing. That degree just isn't going to change things very much.
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Well, when we put in on the loft adjuster it was actually 58. 56 on the club head but read 58. So technically it would be moving it 3 degrees. I am just so indecisive on whether to adjust it or my 52 to the 55.
 
#11,252
#11,252
BigOrangeWhitey said:
Take the 52 to 54. Forget about the stamped bounce. Bounce is a marketing tool the manufactures "makes one think is necessary". A wedge with a wider sole is all anyone needs regardless of what the bounce is
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I wouldn't completely dismiss it like that, but I do think it's a joke that people think they can tell a 1* or 2* difference in bounce.
 
#11,253
#11,253
Orange Blazer said:
Well, when we put in on the loft adjuster it was actually 58. 56 on the club head but read 58. So technically it would be moving it 3 degrees. I am just so indecisive on whether to adjust it or my 52 to the 55.
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If it's a 58, then I can see why you'd have a problem.

Can you even move one that much though? I'd be worried about snapping the hosel bending one more than a degree or two.
 
#11,254
#11,254
GAVol said:
If it's a 58, then I can see why you'd have a problem.

Can you even move one that much though? I'd be worried about snapping the hosel bending one more than a degree or two.
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I trust my guy and he said he could do it. I'm just OCD and can't decide which club to change. Haha.
 
#11,255
#11,255
GAVol said:
If it's a 58, then I can see why you'd have a problem.

Can you even move one that much though? I'd be worried about snapping the hosel bending one more than a degree or two.
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Yea I don't think I would bend it more than 1* either way. Just buy a 55 & have it checked then.
 
#11,257
#11,257
GAVol said:
If it's a 58, then I can see why you'd have a problem.

Can you even move one that much though? I'd be worried about snapping the hosel bending one more than a degree or two.
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Forged & cast both can bent 3* without a problem. Cast will break quicker than forged cause it's harder.
 
#11,258
#11,258
BigOrangeWhitey said:
Forged & cast both can bent 3* without a problem. Cast will break quicker than forged cause it's harder.
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I'm sure you're probably right, but still no way I'm doing it. Moving a loft effectively half a club is just more than I want to screw around with. I'd rather spend a few more bucks and just buy the specs I want without worrying about a broken hosel or the loft returning to original specs.
 
#11,259
#11,259
GAVol said:
I'm sure you're probably right, but still no way I'm doing it. Moving a loft effectively half a club is just more than I want to screw around with. I'd rather spend a few more bucks and just buy the specs I want without worrying about a broken hosel or the loft returning to original specs.
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A lie & loft bend costs round 5 bucks vs the cost of a new wedge.
A lie or loft does not return to anything. All heads require a final lie & loft setting after they are forged or cast. If someone wants a 57* wedge with a lie of 65*, the OEM is not going to custom make this club to those specs. They'll take a standard 56*/63* wedge. lay the loft back & the lie up.
 
#11,260
#11,260
BigOrangeWhitey said:
A lie & loft bend costs round 5 bucks vs the cost of a new wedge.
A lie or loft does not return to anything. All heads require a final lie & loft setting after they are forged or cast. If someone wants a 57* wedge with a lie of 65*, the OEM is not going to custom make this club to those specs. They'll take a standard 56*/63* wedge. lay the loft back & the lie up.
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Yes lies & lofts tend to creep back to their original specs especially cast. You don't wanna bend a club more than a degree or 2 either way & probably no more than a degree with cast. If you start bending more than that you compromise the integrity of the metal & it could break. You should use the lie & loft machine to keep your clubs in spec instead of alter.
 
#11,261
#11,261
govols/cc said:
Yes lies & lofts tend to creep back to their original specs especially cast. You don't wanna bend a club more than a degree or 2 either way & probably no more than a degree with cast. If you start bending more than that you compromise the integrity of the metal & it could break. You should use the lie & loft machine to keep your clubs in spec instead of alter.
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Mine are forged. We moved the SW to 55 today. No problem.
 
#11,263
#11,263
BigOrangeWhitey said:
A lie & loft bend costs round 5 bucks vs the cost of a new wedge.
A lie or loft does not return to anything. All heads require a final lie & loft setting after they are forged or cast. If someone wants a 57* wedge with a lie of 65*, the OEM is not going to custom make this club to those specs. They'll take a standard 56*/63* wedge. lay the loft back & the lie up.
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I've heard conflicting stories about whether clubs return to original specs. I know a lot of people do it though. I've just never been a fan of big moves.
 
#11,268
#11,268
Thrasher865 said:
Where does an AW lie relative to a PW and GW? My irons came with one, and I still don't know what the loft is.
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PW (or P) same club - Pitch or Pitching Wedge
AW (or GW) same club - Approach Wedge or Gap Wedge

Degrees on the P is usually between 45* - 49*
Degrees on the AW is usually between 50* - 54* as Blazer said. This club is often the 100 yard club.

What irons are you playing?
 
#11,271
#11,271
I need some help guys. I'm struggling to hit my longer irons with any decency at all.

I'll catch one super fat, then turn right around and catch one super thin..every now and then I'll strike one solid but it doesn't happen often. I don't have the distance with them that I should either. I don't know if it's my swing, alignment or a combination of both. I can hit my short irons and chip much more consistent, but their still not where I'd like them to be either.

I'm hitting forged Razr X's, by the way.
 
#11,272
#11,272
amazingGRACE said:
I need some help guys. I'm struggling to hit my longer irons with any decency at all.

I'll catch one super fat, then turn right around and catch one super thin..every now and then I'll strike one solid but it doesn't happen often. I don't have the distance with them that I should either. I don't know if it's my swing, alignment or a combination of both. I can hit my short irons and chip much more consistent, but their still not where I'd like them to be either.

I'm hitting forged Razr X's, by the way.
Click to expand...

Maybe swap out for some hybrids or fairway woods until your ball striking improves. The clubs you have aren't the most forgiving either.
 
#11,273
#11,273
BigOrangeWhitey said:
PW (or P) same club - Pitch or Pitching Wedge
AW (or GW) same club - Approach Wedge or Gap Wedge

Degrees on the P is usually between 45* - 49*
Degrees on the AW is usually between 50* - 54* as Blazer said. This club is often the 100 yard club.

What irons are you playing?
Click to expand...

Warbirds, I think? Something cheap.
 
#11,275
#11,275
govols/cc said:
Maybe swap out for some hybrids or fairway woods until your ball striking improves. The clubs you have aren't the most forgiving either.
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Yeah my 3 hybrid and 5 wood I can hit pretty well.


If I would have had a choice I definitely would have bought cavity backs. The set was given to me from a cousin at a really good discount so I wasn't going to tell him thanks, but no thanks ya know? Guess I just need to learn how to strike the ball better.
 
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