Automobilia etc....

I've always had great luck luck when paying cash....

Granted, I did a lot of business with that particular Ford dealer. They knew I wasn't going to get jerked around. I never paid more than 100 bucks over invoice.

I did wait until there were rebates on the type of vehicle I wanted to help with the cost.
 
Don't know what to say. If you don't want to negotiate you either have two choices, pay the asking price or go to carmax.

Otherwise all I can say is use KBB to find out what a fair purchase price on one is and ask them to do that number or a bit less.

If you're getting blown off, it might be that your offer isn't reasonable or the car is in high demand. Most dealers won't let a deal that makes money walk.

If you shop new, use true car to help find your best price.

I'm willing to negotiate some but it rarely gets that far. The leading question is almost always "What kind of payment are you hoping for?". Once I say I won't need to finance it, whole thing slides downhill. I guess what I'm saying is that it seems like no one will negotiate over cash.

(Fwiw, I haven't ridiculously low balled any of them where we at least got to talk price. Like if it was priced at 16k, I've offered 14.5 to see if we can get close. I'll usually go off NADA numbers. Maybe that's off base,idk. The demand thing is does make some sense too.)
 
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I'm willing to negotiate some but it rarely gets that far. The leading question is almost always "What kind of payment are you hoping for?". Once I say I won't need to finance it, whole thing slides downhill. I guess what I'm saying is that it seems like no one will negotiate over cash.

(Fwiw, I haven't ridiculously low balled any of them where we at least got to talk price. Like if it was priced at 16k, I've offered 14.5 to see if we can get close. I'll usually go off NADA numbers. Maybe that's off base,idk. The demand thing is does make some sense too.)

So you are looking used. Nothing wrong with the offer you suggested. Used cars have better margins than new.

Any private sellers within a couple hours of you? They love cash deals. Check Autotrader if you haven't already - might also check Craigslists for cities in a 100 mile or so radius.
 
So you are looking used. Nothing wrong with the offer you suggested. Used cars have better margins than new.

Any private sellers within a couple hours of you? They love cash deals. Check Autotrader if you haven't already - might also check Craigslists for cities in a 100 mile or so radius.

That's what's driven me to the lots. Normally I'd avoid the lots if at all possible, given my past experience.

I'm in Knoxville. Anything in good shape, with reasonable miles at a reasonable price, that hits CL or autotrader is gone within what seems like hours. I'm up to 7 different cars I've called about locally that were already sold (or had a deal pending that ended up going through). Meanwhile, the ads show the same 15-20 mega mileage or hilariously overpriced or salvage titled vehicles that have been on there for weeks.

I check the Asheville, Birmingham, Chattanooga, and occasionally Atlanta and Nashville craigslists. I've found some deals, but nothing survived until the weekend when I could get there to look at it.

I realize a lot of this is because I'm shopping mostly Subarus, which I'm learning attracts a different type of customer (dedicated to the brand, willing to pay a premium even on used, etc. Which now that I say that, lends more creedence to Nerd's point about demand). I may be generalizing too much, but that seems to be the case.

Its definitely a lesson in patience.

On the bright side, its a hell of a time to be selling decent, "cheap", used cars. My wife's 04 Accord has at least 3 people wanting it once we find her something else.
 
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Yep - sometimes a worse deal if the dealer gets some action on the financing.

The place I see a cash advantage is if it's true cash on a non-finance deal and paying real cash (or check) saves the dealer from paying a debit/credit card processing fee.

Most dealers have a limit on credit card, or charge 2-3% to offset.

The advantage of cash is if you are buying where there is lots of bad credit. You can tell the dealer that you are willing and able to buy. Not sure why buyers think acting like they don't want to buy helps their position.
 
Don't know what to say. If you don't want to negotiate you either have two choices, pay the asking price or go to carmax.

Otherwise all I can say is use KBB to find out what a fair purchase price on one is and ask them to do that number or a bit less.

If you're getting blown off, it might be that your offer isn't reasonable or the car is in high demand. Most dealers won't let a deal that makes money walk.

If you shop new, use true car to help find your best price.
KBB won't always tell you a fair purchase price. KBB is guessing and selling ads. see how long it takes for their page to load.

True Car is getting sued left and right.
 
KBB won't always tell you a fair purchase price. KBB is guessing and selling ads. see how long it takes for their page to load.

True Car is getting sued left and right.

I use Edmunds but none of the services are good for getting accurate used prices from dealers if you are the buyer. I've found Edmunds to be close on trade value.
 
From what I've heard about used Subarus, you might as well buy a new one.

I have a coworker that looked for months for a 2-3 year old Subaru and claimed that after 6 months of looking decided he could buy a new one within a few thousand of a used one.

Apparently they command a premium as a used car.
 
They're on the internets now

I know, I know. I used to get on my Dad for always bumming the printed copies from the credit union, but I miss them now. Nostalgia I suppose.



Speaking of which and getting more back on topic since I derailed the thread, a guy at work drove in a 1986 SVO Mustang. I always had a soft spot for those.
 
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I know, I know. I used to get on my Dad for always bumming the printed copies from the credit union, but I miss them now. Nostalgia I suppose.



Speaking of which and getting more back on topic since I derailed the thread, a guy at work drove in a 1986 SVO Mustang. I always had a soft spot for those.


You should see the Mclaren M81 SVO mustang.

You ever heard of that one, Crew?

mclaren-mustang.jpg
 
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The time is finally here. I graduate from the war college Friday, and have officially started my search for a new C7 convertible. Hoping to have a car in place in the next two weeks. So stoked.
 
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I use Edmunds but none of the services are good for getting accurate used prices from dealers if you are the buyer. I've found Edmunds to be close on trade value.

Most dealers are priced below NADA, KBB and Edmunds. But I doubt that is what uou meant.
 
Most dealers are priced below NADA, KBB and Edmunds. But I doubt that is what uou meant.

What I meant is dealers selling used cars have any number of pricing strategies and list these cars at prices that don't align with the pricing guides very well.

For new cars, the guides work much better and they work better for real trade values. Using them to predict what a dealer will sell a used car for (particularly used cars that are only a few years old) is marginal at best.
 
What's up with Truecar?

Truecar, like most of these sites is trying to drive hits to their page, where they then load ads.

True cars, so called 'true price' was essentially their opinion. Dealers had to subscribe, otherwise, no matter how competitive a dealers pricing, the consumer would never know. It is basically a way to force dealers to pay and buy market share, and not really help customers. TC's pricing was arbitrary at best.

The customer thinks that TC is working for them, trying to find the 'best deal,' when in reality dealers were simply buying market exposure. In many cases the customers where driven towards dealers not even in their contiguous market, because they had bought that market.

KBB, Edmunds, NADA, provide information, and you can buy ad spots on their page, but they don't direct the customer to select dealers based simply on a dealer paying a fee.
 
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Edmunds has a forum function with a thread for almost any new car called Prices Paid and Buying Experiences. Good place to go find what individuals are getting.

The also have a Lease thread for each make where they'll tell you what the current lease programs are (residuals based on length of lease and mileage and money factor). Knowing the money factor is a big deal since dealers never tell you what the base MF is.
 

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