Things I Have Built

Nice. I love the smell of cedar. Early last spring I bought a dozen, 10-foot-long cedar 4x4s to build some raised beds for growing tomatoes at my workplace but those 4x4s are still sitting in my storage room... And the business is still keeping me hopping, so I'm not sure those beds will get built for next year either. But that storage room sure smells nice!

I get cedar for raised beds at Grant Cedar Mill in Grant, TN. I buy 1 x 8 x 8 rough sawn. That works for 4 ft beds and use 2 x2 in corners. 1 inch cedar will not bow but I usually use a 1x scrap half way for support. Eastern red cedar will rot, but some of mine is 7 years old and holding up well.
A 1 x8 x 8 is about $6. I 40 exit 254 from the east.

Your 4 x 4s will likely last decades?
 
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I get cedar for raised beds at Grant Cedar Mill in Grant, TN. I buy 1 x 8 x 8 rough sawn. That works for 4 ft beds and use 2 x2 in corners. 1 inch cedar will not bow but I usually use a 1x scrap half way for support. Eastern red cedar will rot, but some of mine is 7 years old and holding up well.
A 1 x8 x 8 is about $6. I 40 exit 254 from the east.

Your 4 x 4s will likely last decades?
Most likely those 4x4's will outlive me... especially if they stay in my storage room another year or two. And being an engineer I do tend to overdo it on my designs. But seriously, thanks for the tips and comments, although being in Texas, I have a local source a few miles away that's a specialist in cedar.
 
I have a couple of those cheap, white, laminated bookcases in my bonus room for storing bonus room stuff. Books, darts, cornhole bags, board games and miscellaneous crap that probably needs throwing away. The front is open and my wife thinks it looks like crap and wanted me to get something with doors. Stuff that's affordable is usually made of MDF and laminated and gets mixed reviews. Screw holes get stripped easily. Well made stuff is very expensive. So, I decided to build one myself. Used 3/4" maple plywood and mixed up a dye stain color we both liked. Added some Blum soft close hidden hinges. I don't have a table saw so all the cuts were with my circular saw and a straight edge. Turned out nice so I'll make another to match it for the opposite corner of the room.

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I have a couple of those cheap, white, laminated bookcases in my bonus room for storing bonus room stuff. Books, darts, cornhole bags, board games and miscellaneous crap that probably needs throwing away. The front is open and my wife thinks it looks like crap and wanted me to get something with doors. Stuff that's affordable is usually made of MDF and laminated and gets mixed reviews. Screw holes get stripped easily. Well made stuff is very expensive. So, I decided to build one myself. Used 3/4" maple plywood and mixed up a dye stain color we both liked. Added some Blum soft close hidden hinges. I don't have a table saw so all the cuts were with my circular saw and a straight edge. Turned out nice so I'll make another to match it for the opposite corner of the room.

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Well done!
 
I have a smallish bookshelf in a nook by the computer for storing printer paper, CD's, mailing labels, etc. It's just a piece of crap I threw together with some scrap pine when we moved to this house years ago to fit the space. It's open on the front and it's messy.

I decided to make a nicer one with doors to cover the mess behind. The new one is 38" wide and 28" tall with a middle shelf. I didn't want the doors to swing out 19" so I made it with bypass sliding doors instead.

I used some leftover maple 3/4" plywood from another project for the carcass. I used 1/4" birch for the doors. I routed some dadoes around all 4 sides for the doors to slide in. I didn't put cabinet knobs on the doors because that would restrict how far each door would slide. I ordered and am waiting on some sliding cabinet door finger pulls that will be recessed and allow both doors to bypass each other fully without hitting a knob.

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Edited to add pics with the flush door pulls added.

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Looks good! How sturdy is it? Looks like you decided to stain with the doors on?

Thanks. You mean the one with the sliding bypass doors? It's very sturdy. I assembled the bottom and 2 sides first, then stained them. I stained the top and shelf separately before attaching them and I stained the doors separately. The sliding doors are removable. I routed the top track deeper than the bottom track so to remove the doors I just lift them up and tilt them out at the bottom.
 
I built a cabinet with sliding doors to sit by the computer to store office and computer crap (a few posts back). I decided I needed a paper tray for printer paper, shipping labels, bills, whatever.
I wanted it about 13" tall to fit inside the cabinet.

Started with 3/4" maple plywood. Cut 2 equal sides and put 4 matching 1/4" dadoes in each one to hold the slide in shelves
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Attached a back. Used 1/4" birch plywood.
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Made 4 shelves of 1/4" birch to slide into dadoes.

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Added half moon cutouts to each shelf to have a place to put your finger under the paper and pick it up. Will stain when the garage warms up

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My camera skills suck. In a couple of those pics it looks taller than it is wide but the final dimensions are 14.5" wide, 12.5" tall and 9.25" deep.
 
Anyone else use one of these growing up???

My grandmother lived in a house until the mid 70's with an outhouse. It was built around 1900 in Bum ****, Egypt. No plumbing. Every time we visited I prayed a sh*t pain wouldn't hit me until we got back to civilization. When it did I always chose to squat behind a tree. Saw too many spiders and centipedes in that thing to sit on it. They had plenty of land so I could always find a fresh tree.
 
Finished this paper tray a couple weeks ago (a few posts back). Just got around to staining it. Decided to put a UT decal on both sides and the back. General Finishes water based Pecan stain. 2 coats of polycrylic, then the decals, then probably another 5-6 coats of poly.

Before the stain
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After

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Wouldn’t necessarily call it built but had a few changes made to my 2016 Chevy Colorado.

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Building a Lean-to on back side of storage shed (10x16)... will move all yard equip and yard tools into lean-to, and convert shed to my workshop.
Will shingle the roof and then add a 4 ft wall around 2 walls, and call it done.

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Ok - couple of things I noticed: used 2x8’s it looks like instead of 2x 6’s. - solid. Also, looks like cedar posts. Again - solid. Finally I’m always interested in why a guy chooses to construct the cross beam (I don’t know the proper term) upon which the rafters rest. Looked like maybe 2x6’s bolted to each side of the 4x4. Why not notch the 4x4 and rest a beam on that? Clearly well built just curious
 

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