The Official 2nd Amendment Appreciation Thread

#5,051
#5,051
Grand Vol said:
SGAmmo

Ammo2Go

Palmetto State Armory

AIM Surplus

J&G Sales

Wideners

Midway

Are all sites I've used for bulk purchases over the years with reasonable prices and decent shipping.

I steer clear of Cheaper than Dirt since those greedy ****s tend to jack prices as soon as they can whenever there is a shooting in the news. But it's out there.

I'd steer clear of anything reloaded you find at a gun show. Generally:

Federal
Winchester
Prvi Partizan
Sellier and Bellot
Magtech
Any Russian animal brand steel cased
Wolf brass cased
CCI (though some of their brass cased I got once wasn't crimped and I had major bullet setback issues)
PMC
Speer
Tula...can be okay, but loads light from time to time
Independence
Remington
Hornady
Fiocchi
Geco
Armscor
IMI

Are good and trusted brands that shouldn't give you problems. Be wary, again, of any reloads from a non-reputable manufacturer.
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Thanks for the info. One more question if you don't mind...I know the ranges prefer you to use brass so they can sell/recycle them. Is it better for our guns compared to aluminum or steel cased?
 
#5,052
#5,052
jhen713 said:
Thanks for the info. One more question if you don't mind...I know the ranges prefer you to use brass so they can sell/recycle them. Is it better for our guns compared to aluminum or steel cased?
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I don't think it's as much with the case as it is with the steel projectiles. A lot of indoor ranges won't allow steel jacketed bullets, which tend to also be steel casings. I've got brass cased, steel jacketed ammo I can't use at certain ranges (even though it's probably entirely safe) so it's more about the bullet than the case.

As for "better" a Glock will tend to eat anything you throw into it. The steel cased stuff tends to be a little dirtier than other manufacturers, but it's perfectly okay in a high quality firearm.
 
#5,053
#5,053
jhen713 said:
Thanks for the info. One more question if you don't mind...I know the ranges prefer you to use brass so they can sell/recycle them. Is it better for our guns compared to aluminum or steel cased?
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Brass is easier on your extractor since it’s softer than steel. Steel is cheaper but can wear components more quickly. The steel case also doesn’t expand in the chamber like brass does, so you’ll have more fouling. I would stick with brass, the difference in price is made up with less wear and residual value in the spent case. Don’t leave them at the range, you’re already paying them to shoot there. Take your brass home and sell it.
 
#5,054
#5,054
Grand Vol said:
I don't think it's as much with the case as it is with the steel projectiles. A lot of indoor ranges won't allow steel jacketed bullets, which tend to also be steel casings. I've got brass cased, steel jacketed ammo I can't use at certain ranges (even though it's probably entirely safe) so it's more about the bullet than the case.

As for "better" a Glock will tend to eat anything you throw into it. The steel cased stuff tends to be a little dirtier than other manufacturers, but it's perfectly okay in a high quality firearm.
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Lots of outdoor ranges out west prohibit steel core or jacketed ammo because ricochets could cause fires.
 
#5,056
#5,056
golfballs said:
No. At what point is it worth considering?
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Entirely depends on how much and of what you're shooting. If you're shooting 500 S&W, 416 Rigby, 338 Lapua, etc you can save a lot over a pretty small amount of shooting. If you're loading for 9mm you can take a pretty cheap factory load from 23c per down to 16c. (more if you want to shoot lead/plated bullets) In .500S&W you can take the cost of "cheap" 1.82 factory down to 60c.

If your volume stays low in "standard" calibers it would take a long time to make up the initial set up costs. If you're shooting much and/or shooting less common calibers you can make it up pretty quickly.
 
#5,057
#5,057
Grand Vol said:
Magpul MOE hand guard. Carbine length.

M-LOK 1913 rail attachment 5 Slot polymer.

I'll go easy on you and suggest another Streamligiht TLR-1s.

Go for the gold with a Surefire M600 Ultra Scout after you've saved up your pennies. Sell the Streamlight to make up the difference.

I suggest replacing the handguards since eventually you'll want to add more doodads onto it and the M-LOK makes that easy. Plus, if Mrs. GW is lurking, it makes for a dandy Valentines Day and/or Father's Day gift idea.

Eventually, we're gonna talk about muzzle devices...
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I can see me eventually coming around and installing the Magpul carbine handguard. Eventually.

For now, it's going to be the Surefire M300C Scout light. $220 out the door. The only question is whether I should use the Mossie mount (12 o'clock), or a 10 o'clock Colt-compatible mount similar to the SMC-1. I prefer the Mossie due to no "horizontal extensions", and the shadow would be at the 6 o'clock position, but I wonder how I'm gonna get my thumb in there in a stressful situation.


I'll hang up and listen.
 
#5,058
#5,058
hndog609 said:
Entirely depends on how much and of what you're shooting. If you're shooting 500 S&W, 416 Rigby, 338 Lapua, etc you can save a lot over a pretty small amount of shooting. If you're loading for 9mm you can take a pretty cheap factory load from 23c per down to 16c. (more if you want to shoot lead/plated bullets) In .500S&W you can take the cost of "cheap" 1.82 factory down to 60c.

If your volume stays low in "standard" calibers it would take a long time to make up the initial set up costs. If you're shooting much and/or shooting less common calibers you can make it up pretty quickly.
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I want to meet the person that fires more than 10 rounds of a .416 Rigby in a single sitting.
 
#5,059
#5,059
GreyWolf1129 said:
I can see me eventually coming around and installing the Magpul carbine handguard. Eventually.

For now, it's going to be the Surefire M300C Scout light. $220 out the door. The only question is whether I should use the Mossie mount (12 o'clock), or a 10 o'clock Colt-compatible mount similar to the SMC-1. I prefer the Mossie due to no "horizontal extensions", and the shadow would be at the 6 o'clock position, but I wonder how I'm gonna get my thumb in there in a stressful situation.


I'll hang up and listen.
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Shoot your carbine Magpul style.

afg_9-tfb.jpg


4694160233_0f8a64b905.jpg


Parallax-17.jpg


It's life changing and your thumb is right by the switch.
 
#5,062
#5,062
Grand Vol said:
Shoot your carbine Magpul style.

It's life changing and your thumb is right by the switch.
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Yep, I'm already a "thumb over" guy. Got that from some sharp shots over in FAD. The issue is going to be how to get to the tailcap with a Mossie mount, which would be directly in front of the front sight post...or the much easier to reach 10 o'clock position for the (name escapes me) hand guard mount. Logic dictates the latter choice, but I'm worried about having any sort of "horizontal extension" that can hang up on anything in a quick deployment.

At this point, short of changing the hand guard and then maybe the stock; maybe a magnifier for the Aimpoint; a pressure switch for the light (I've heard both sides of that debate); I feel like I'm as close to combat ready as I'm going to get without spending serious money...and when you add it all up, I've already spent serious money. I may not be "there" with my AR, but I'm close. Oh...thanks.

So if you have an opinion on the light mount, I'd like to hear it.
 
#5,064
#5,064
GreyWolf1129 said:
Yep, I'm already a "thumb over" guy. Got that from some sharp shots over in FAD. The issue is going to be how to get to the tailcap with a Mossie mount, which would be directly in front of the front sight post...or the much easier to reach 10 o'clock position for the (name escapes me) hand guard mount. Logic dictates the latter choice, but I'm worried about having any sort of "horizontal extension" that can hang up on anything in a quick deployment.

At this point, short of changing the hand guard and then maybe the stock; maybe a magnifier for the Aimpoint; a pressure switch for the light (I've heard both sides of that debate); I feel like I'm as close to combat ready as I'm going to get without spending serious money...and when you add it all up, I've already spent serious money. I may not be "there" with my AR, but I'm close. Oh...thanks.

So if you have an opinion on the light mount, I'd like to hear it.
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Oh, GW, just send me your carbine for a month along with your credit card and I'd have you fixed right up.

Let me get home and I'll add my thoughts.
 
#5,066
#5,066
Grand Vol said:
GW, are you on Twitter?
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No. I avoid Twitter, FaceBook, et al like the plague. Too many good cops have been undone by moments of stupidity on social media sites, and I attended a classified briefing by an alphabet agency over a year ago about how you can be tracked by prison gangs, biker gangs, Sovereign's, etc. through your social media activity, so...none of that for Wautash. This is as social as I get.

As for you, if you want a private path of communication, I'll send Freak an email asking him to send you my personal email address. I have no problem with you knowing who I am, where I am, and you already know most of what I do.

On another note, I have a MacBook Pro, and I have pictures of my armory on my desktop now. How do I post them here so you can see what you've been spending my money on?
 
#5,067
#5,067
The mossie mount is what it is. Heat is an issue but it’s not designed to withstand prolonged firing. It’s meant for folks who do not want to, or cannot modify their carbine. It’s a light mount that will get the job done, just wear gloves, it’s gonna get hot.

I run a surefire X300U on my short barreled colt carbine with the mossie and it works great, provided i keep in mind it’s intended purpose. I much prefer the 12 o’clock index to the 2 or 11 o’clock.
 
#5,068
#5,068
DEFENDTHISHOUSE said:
The mossie mount is what it is. Heat is an issue but it’s not designed to withstand prolonged firing. It’s meant for folks who do not want to, or cannot modify their carbine. It’s a light mount that will get the job done, just wear gloves, it’s gonna get hot.

I run a surefire X300U on my short barreled colt carbine with the mossie and it works great, provided i keep in mind it’s intended purpose. I much prefer the 12 o’clock index to the 2 or 11 o’clock.
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Thanks for the info. I'm leaning Mossie, but wonder about being able to reach the tailcap of the light with the way the Mossie mount works. No issues for you?

Mind you, this is my home defense and patrol rifle. If I have to bail and go at 3am on a hot call that turns into a gunfight, am I going to be able to activate...or perhaps more importantly...turn off that light in a hurry?

Edit: FYI, I have a Colt 6721 A3 Carbine HBAR, with the 16" barrel, so there is enough barrel ahead of the front sight so as to not make the compensator an issue. So while it might get hot, it won't see any compensator heat (or blast).
 
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#5,069
#5,069
GreyWolf1129 said:
Thanks for the info. I'm leaning Mossie, but wonder about being able to reach the tailcap of the light with the way the Mossie mount works. No issues for you?

Mind you, this is my home defense and patrol rifle. If I have to bail and go at 3am on a hot call that turns into a gunfight, am I going to be able to activate...or perhaps more importantly...turn off that light in a hurry?
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Shouldn’t be an issue for you. I’d suggest you pick it up and try it. When I am home, I keep my carbine next to the bed.

You can see the way it fits. It’s completely ambidextrous. You can push the tail cap on the surefire for momentary on or flip it down for constant on. I would think the streamlight would work just the same, minus the push for momentary on.
 

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#5,070
#5,070
DEFENDTHISHOUSE said:
Shouldn’t be an issue for you. I’d suggest you pick it up and try it. When I am home, I keep my carbine next to the bed.

You can see the way it fits. It’s completely ambidextrous. You can push the tail cap on the surefire for momentary on or flip it down for constant on. I would think the streamlight would work just the same, minus the push for momentary on.
Click to expand...

I have the SureFire 300C Scout, which has a tailcap switch, so there's the hangup: enough room to hit the switch (momentary or on) forward of the front post.

There is also a bayonet lug mount option, but that one doesn't seem to be very popular in most of the AR forums. I could get the 7" pressure switch, which would probably work well with the Mossie mount, but that takes away the "break & rake" technique, which to be honest, is probably not a concern for me now that I am strictly patrol. Too old and slow to run with the SRT anymore. Still, it was nice back when the Sheriff kindly paid for any bells or whistles we wanted to add to our gear. I had a fully-suppressed MP5N that was so tricked out, it got date offers on FarmersOnly.com...lol.
 
#5,072
#5,072
GreyWolf1129 said:
I have the SureFire 300C Scout, which has a tailcap switch, so there's the hangup: enough room to hit the switch (momentary or on) forward of the front post.

There is also a bayonet lug mount option, but that one doesn't seem to be very popular in most of the AR forums. I could get the 7" pressure switch, which would probably work well with the Mossie mount, but that takes away the "break & rake" technique, which to be honest, is probably not a concern for me now that I am strictly patrol. Too old and slow to run with the SRT anymore. Still, it was nice back when the Sheriff kindly paid for any bells or whistles we wanted to add to our gear. I had a fully-suppressed MP5N that was so tricked out, it got date offers on FarmersOnly.com...lol.
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If that’s the case, I wouldn’t even consider running the scout light with the mossie. Perhaps the magpul handguards would be best for that light.

The 6 o’clock position is just awkward and produces too many shadows imo.
 
#5,073
#5,073
Grand Vol said:
But GW, if you are going to look at an M14 pattern rifle and a Springfield in particular, I'd look at the M1A Loaded model, the MA9826 in particular. Yeah, it's the full length "musket" variant, but that thing just wants to shoot great and if the shooter does his or her part, it's a laser. I cloverleafed a three shot group of 168 grain A-MAX my first trip to the range through open sights. Cloverleafed a second set towards the end. I only had one box, but it was all about the accuracy. I flat guarantee you will not replace the trigger in that one.

If you are looking at a range toy, that's my suggestion, however, DTH is way more my superior when it comes to the different manufacturers in that platform than I am.

If you're looking at a supplemental trunk rifle that hits heavier, we can talk...
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You’re trying to get the poor guy killed by his wife lol
These days a Springfield M1A requires so much replacement parts to even get to shoot accurately and reliably past 200 yards it’s not even worth considering. Plus you got that bs rock river and Springfield pulled a while back.

If viewed as a second rifle with appropriate optics, I have just one name.... Smith Enterprises. Or an LRB receiver built up by Smith Enterprises.

The work Ron Smith and his team do on the Crazy Horse M14 is nothing short of astounding. Of course you’re looking at $6000+ It’s not for everyone.

http://www.smithenterprise.com/products02.html
 
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#5,074
#5,074
DEFENDTHISHOUSE said:
You’re trying to get the poor guy killed by his wife lol
These days a Springfield M1A requires so much replacement parts to even get to shoot accurately and reliably past 200 yards it’s not even worth considering. Plus you got that bs rock river and Springfield pulled a while back.

If viewed as a second rifle with appropriate optics, I have just one name.... Smith Enterprises. Or an LRB receiver built up by Smith Enterprises.

The work Ron Smith and his team do on the Crazy Horse M14 is nothing short of astounding. Of course you’re looking at $6000+ It’s not for everyone.

M14SE Crazy Horse and MK14 SEI Rifles : Smith Enterprise, Inc.
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That's why I suggested the Loaded model lol

Even you can admit the Loaded is pretty nice.
 
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