The Gardening Thread

Go aeiou

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Rabbits will also destroy hostas. I planted some black eyed susans and they’ve been eating them to the ground as well.
I am having problems with rabbits nibbling on hosta for the first time ever that I recall. Only on a dwarf plant that grows low to the ground. 20220706_075801.jpg 20220706_075809.jpg These are almost identical plants. the nibbled one is light green. The other is light yellow/green with darker green edges.
I have had problems with snails and slugs., and use a pet safe products that kills them.
 
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Tin Man

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The latest tomato flower clusters have all fallen off. I do not know if they were knocked off by the storms or if there may be another reason.
 

VolNExile

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The latest tomato flower clusters have all fallen off. I do not know if they were knocked off by the storms or if there may be another reason.
It's usually because of excess heat, but high winds and rains can certainly do it. Also, if the weather was so bad that the pollinators weren't able to do their thing, the flowers will fall off (about 50 hours.)

I couldn't find any really useful references from the UGA or UTK extension sites, but here's one from Burke County NC (pretty similar to your area in terms of temps, etc.): Blossom Drop

And as much as it chaps me to refer to anything out of UF, this is a pretty good PP dealing with how tomatoes are pollinated and blossom drop in tomatoes (meant for commercial farmers, obviously): https://swfrec.ifas.ufl.edu/docs/pdf/veg-hort/tomato-institute/presentations/ti2011/ozores.pdf
 
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Tin Man

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It's usually because of excess heat, but high winds and rains can certainly do it. Also, if the weather was so bad that the pollinators weren't able to do their thing, the flowers will fall off (about 50 hours.)

I couldn't find any really useful references from the UGA or UTK extension sites, but here's one from Burke County NC (pretty similar to your area in terms of temps, etc.): Blossom Drop

And as much as it chaps me to refer to anything out of UF, this is a pretty good PP dealing with how tomatoes are pollinated and blossom drop in tomatoes (meant for commercial farmers, obviously): https://swfrec.ifas.ufl.edu/docs/pdf/veg-hort/tomato-institute/presentations/ti2011/ozores.pdf
Thanks Exie. I’m convinced that there will be more flowers and maters coming.
 
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GVF

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Yeah, Exie's references were spot on. Maters will enter self-preservation in heat and drought. We were hitting 3 weeks without rain and got into triple digit heat factor for over a week. The watering barely kept the soils moist even mulched. My maters put the brakes on quick. But, as soon as the weather broke they fired back up. I was used to it gardening in middle GA for years. The best way to grow tomatoes is plant a variety and atleast 6 plants. They all react differently to conditions, and if you diversify your tomato plantings you'll get something. If your not into all that, just throw in Better boy and FLA 91 hybrids, and pick them all together. FLA 91 is a high heat hybrid that is supposed to have some really good flavor. I haven't tried it yet, but it's billed to set fruit into the high 90's. And Better Boys, IMO, are the best tasting hybrid.
 
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VolNExile

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The German Johnson pretty well pooped out this year. Only half the height of the other indeterminates. But it was the first (other than the cherries) to show color. Then the branch with the coloring maters broke. Sigh.

I’ve got the two fruits from the broken branch sitting in the sun, hoping to get a bit more color.

1657739867102.jpeg
 

GVF

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This year's seedlings that survived are Cherokee purple and a Frankenstein cherry tomato from seeds of cross-pollinated fruit circa 2020.
If your only gonna have one tomato survive, it might as well be Cherokee Purple. One of the best I've had. Being a southern heirloom, it handles a variety of conditions.
 

VolNExile

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If your only gonna have one tomato survive, it might as well be Cherokee Purple. One of the best I've had. Being a southern heirloom, it handles a variety of conditions.
Except the conditions in Western NC. Our weather generally comes up from the Gulf, bringing the blights and viruses and fungi up from Florida. It has become a running joke among my fellow tomato gardeners. I wind up buying Georgia-grown Cherokee Purples from the farmers market.
 
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Tin Man

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Except the conditions in Western NC. Our weather generally comes up from the Gulf, bringing the blights and viruses and fungi up from Florida. It has become a running joke among my fellow tomato gardeners. I wind up buying Georgia-grown Cherokee Purples from the farmers market.
I’ll ask you to recommend varieties when I move to higher altitude.
 
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UT_VOLS13

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Have not tried a dwarf okra yet. My okra success is hit and miss. I am ditching the clemson spineless this year and trying a couple different varieties as well as two ornamental and supposedly fantastic tasting okras.

But, in addition to the Baby Bubba...Blondy, Red Velevet, and Cajun Delight all cap around 4 feet for container growing. Burpee or True Leaf Seeds seems to have all of these varieties.


I have some Star of David seed, but elected not to plant. I did seed Louisiana Long, Heavy Hitter, Okinawa Pink, and Jing Orange. I will slice and freeze for fried okra. We love it. But, I will alaso bread and skillet sautee with the fresh breaded tomatoes. Best side dish ever. It will convert non-okra folks. I have finally discovered pickled okra as well.

Just an FYI for okra enthusiests:
If you have not tried Lousiana Long (16 inch pod), I am trying it because it is pickable up to 16" and is said to remain super tender even out to over 10, giving you a grace period to pick pods and still get a knife thru them for slicing up.
I got some heavy hitter okra when I saw that you mentioned them. Man the things are growing like crazy. Some of the stalks are thicker than a broom stick. I believe I got nine and can get okra about everyday.
 
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VolNExile

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I ask you to recommend varieties when I move to higher altitude.
I’m guessing it’ll be much of what you already grow. The main issue is soil temperature (getting it warm enough) to allow for the long growing season, and that can be finagled with black plastic for a few weeks before setting out, and then afterwards until uncovered soil hits the magic temp (65°-70°, closer to 70° is better.)

But I’m picking the brains of other heirloom tomato growers around here for probably three new (to me) varieties for next year. For me, it’s all about the flavor (don’t care about looks), but the dang things need to live!
 
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Volunteer_Kirby

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The German Johnson pretty well pooped out this year. Only half the height of the other indeterminates. But it was the first (other than the cherries) to show color. Then the branch with the coloring maters broke. Sigh.

I’ve got the two fruits from the broken branch sitting in the sun, hoping to get a bit more color.

View attachment 472454
Arp! Best rosemary.
 
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Volunteer_Kirby

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Nothing much blooming now but I've managed to get my Hedychiums (butterfly ginger) budded, hidden ginger (curcuma) just finished and my rain lilies are sporadic this yr. Going to have to rethink some flowering perennials and go with more yuccas, hesperaloes/aloes, mangaves/agaves, nolinas/sotol next yr. It's been absolutely brutal this yr in C TX.
 

GVF

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I got some heavy hitter okra when I saw that you mentioned them. Man the things are growing like crazy. Some of the stalks are thicker than a broom stick. I believe I got nine and can get okra about everyday.
Yep. Mine are kicking in too. THey have yet to hit peak production, I hope. Write-up said one plant could put out up to 40 lbs of okra in a season. We'll see. I thought my Louisiana Long didn't germinate, but I ended up with one. It puts out tender pods up to 16" if you have hte patience.
 

GVF

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Just put brussell sprout seeds in the ground. It may not work, but I am also gonne try a fall crop of taters. I checked the drawer, and the yukon golds are putting out some good eye buds.

Got a pretty good crop of tomatoes. Just waiting on color. THey will be hitting stride on my week in PCB probably.
 

zhangliao04

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I’m struggling a little bit with my strawberry plants. They are in pots (4 per pot) with enough space. Half seem to be doing fine while the other half is not doing okay. The edges of the green leaves are turning brown and curl the leaf. I know we have been having some pretty hot temps this year, so maybe that’s it? Or overwatering? Anybody have any thoughts?

I attached some pics for those interested. The one that has completely wilted is the only one so far like that but I’m afraid more will follow.
 

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UT_VOLS13

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Yep. Mine are kicking in too. THey have yet to hit peak production, I hope. Write-up said one plant could put out up to 40 lbs of okra in a season. We'll see. I thought my Louisiana Long didn't germinate, but I ended up with one. It puts out tender pods up to 16" if you have hte patience.
I will give them a try next year.
 
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Volunteer_Kirby

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I’m struggling a little bit with my strawberry plants. They are in pots (4 per pot) with enough space. Half seem to be doing fine while the other half is not doing okay. The edges of the green leaves are turning brown and curl the leaf. I know we have been having some pretty hot temps this year, so maybe that’s it? Or overwatering? Anybody have any thoughts?

I attached some pics for those interested. The one that has completely wilted is the only one so far like that but I’m afraid more will follow.
Try being consistent when watering each side, observe if sunny side is drying quicker and then let dry a tad between waterings. You want it slightly damp, not wet before watering. Drying out completely will cause an immediate crash but so will overwatering. GL.
 

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