The Gardening Thread

LOL, I suspect that when we sell or die the new owners will chose to cut down those 14 weird trees with the weird limbs and leaves(Japanese Maples). The will also spray glyphosate or stronger vegetation killer on the 60' x 15' hosta, fern, heuchera and dwarf conifer bed. Finally they will cut down the 100+ year old oak tree. They will be very proud of their crisp clean new green lawn, and the lack of leaves in the fall.
Gardeners are a small minority.
Terrible, but true!

🤬🤬🤬
 
I feel like I already know the answer to this question, but is it really worth it starting from seed instead of buying already grown plants from local garden centers? I might have to do one, but the others I think I can find. I’m quite new to growing plants (not extremely new to it) and don’t have a ton of experience with it so I figure buying them already grown a little might be the best choice.
 
LOL, I suspect that when we sell or die the new owners will chose to cut down those 14 weird trees with the weird limbs and leaves(Japanese Maples). The will also spray glyphosate or stronger vegetation killer on the 60' x 15' hosta, fern, heuchera and dwarf conifer bed. Finally they will cut down the 100+ year old oak tree. They will be very proud of their crisp clean new green lawn, and the lack of leaves in the fall.
Gardeners are a small minority.

One prior home, the new owner hated mowing grass. He tore out the front yard and planted a variety of ornamental trees and bushes too densely for anything to mature healthily. He has since allowed kudzu from a neighbor's yard to overwhelm everything, front and back.
 
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LOL, I suspect that when we sell or die the new owners will chose to cut down those 14 weird trees with the weird limbs and leaves(Japanese Maples). The will also spray glyphosate or stronger vegetation killer on the 60' x 15' hosta, fern, heuchera and dwarf conifer bed. Finally they will cut down the 100+ year old oak tree. They will be very proud of their crisp clean new green lawn, and the lack of leaves in the fall.
Gardeners are a small minority.
On a different prior property, the new owners did as you anticipate. They ripped out all of the landscaping in the front (south facing) except one rose. They grew vegetables in the disturbed soil that remained.
 
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LOL, I suspect that when we sell or die the new owners will chose to cut down those 14 weird trees with the weird limbs and leaves(Japanese Maples). The will also spray glyphosate or stronger vegetation killer on the 60' x 15' hosta, fern, heuchera and dwarf conifer bed. Finally they will cut down the 100+ year old oak tree. They will be very proud of their crisp clean new green lawn, and the lack of leaves in the fall.
Gardeners are a small minority.

That would be very depressing.

On another note, I met a woman a couple years ago who moved to Eugene after being burnt out in one of the California fires. She's a master gardener, very experienced rose judge etc. She lost her entire home and everything in it, they got very short notice and had to get out immediately just to stay alive, plus she lost over 300 roses. She's rebuilt here in Eugene and her yards are amazing!!
 
I feel like I already know the answer to this question, but is it really worth it starting from seed instead of buying already grown plants from local garden centers? I might have to do one, but the others I think I can find. I’m quite new to growing plants (not extremely new to it) and don’t have a ton of experience with it so I figure buying them already grown a little might be the best choice.
I start mine because I like different varieties than are commonly found for sale, or I miss them when they do come in.
 
I start mine because I like different varieties than are commonly found for sale, or I miss them when they do come in.

Depends for me. Bush like plants like roses, azealas and the like, I buy already started. Perennials, I buy mostly seed and some plants. Veggies can get two expensive to buy plants, so I've been seeding straight to the garden. With my brother having an ample greenhouse now, I will probably start a bit of my seeds early.
 
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For the food gardeners, has anyone tried Six Shooter Corn, or Yukon Chief Corn? I live on the Cumberland Plateau between Nashville and Knoxville. Have not found the right corn yet for a bumper crop. Last year possibly just over spray from the corn fields across the road the neighbor grows in our fields. The Co-Op told him the wrong spray and his corn started falling over at the base. Mine produced but the stalks stunted and didn't produce like I thought they should anyway. I've got seed for both those varieties, but if I find something better, I may change up.

Yukon Chief is a 55 day corn with dwarf stalks developed for the short Alaska growing seasons. Gives an early southern harvest and can be seeded in cool ground. And followed with a warm weather later corn. Six Shooter, depending on your plant spacing and soil, can produce up to 6 ears per stalk. Both are open pollinated sweet varieties.

I'm also considering Stowells Evergreen in place of the Six Shooter.
 
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For the food gardeners, has anyone tried Six Shooter Corn, or Yukon Chief Corn? I live on the Cumberland Plateau between Nashville and Knoxville. Have not found the right corn yet for a bumper crop. Last year possibly just over spray from the corn fields across the road the neighbor grows in our fields. The Co-Op told him the wrong spray and his corn started falling over at the base. Mine produced but the stalks stunted and didn't produce like I thought they should anyway. I've got seed for both those varieties, but if I find something better, I may change up.

Yukon Chief is a 55 day corn with dwarf stalks developed for the short Alaska growing seasons. Gives an early southern harvest and can be seeded in cool ground. And followed with a warm weather later corn. Six Shooter, depending on your plant spacing and soil, can produce up to 6 ears per stalk. Both are open pollinated sweet varieties.

I'm also considering Stowells Evergreen in place of the Six Shooter.

JMO, the best corn grows in Iowa, IL. A big part is the fertile soil, rain and longer summer days that they get. You might want to research "how to grow corn". You probably have better conditions than those of us that have 90s and almost no water in July and August.
Good luck.
 
JMO, the best corn grows in Iowa, IL. A big part is the fertile soil, rain and longer summer days that they get. You might want to research "how to grow corn". You probably have better conditions than those of us that have 90s and almost no water in July and August.
Good luck.

I'm actually, for the first time, going to do a soil sample this year. UT has a local extension office up the road. He said if I want the most successful home garden, I need to know what my pH and other levels are. Optimum pH for maximum nutrient absorption being 6.0-6.5. Of course, my dad having spent his life in Ag, I should have already been doing this. Not sure he did really. He was an Agronomist, then in peanuts, and him and mom had no fail green thumbs instinctively. Last year was my best garden since leaving the warmer GA growing seasons, but it could have been better.
 
I'm actually, for the first time, going to do a soil sample this year. UT has a local extension office up the road. He said if I want the most successful home garden, I need to know what my pH and other levels are. Optimum pH for maximum nutrient absorption being 6.0-6.5. Of course, my dad having spent his life in Ag, I should have already been doing this. Not sure he did really. He was an Agronomist, then in peanuts, and him and mom had no fail green thumbs instinctively. Last year was my best garden since leaving the warmer GA growing seasons, but it could have been better.
My soil tests were/are hysterically off in some areas, as the top six-eight inches aren’t actually soil, but what I call “fancy dirt” - bagged composted cow manure, shredded bark, etc. the section on “organic matter” was very low, apparently because there’s practically no mineral content from actual dirt, so the ratio they use is off. In fact, the stuff I plant in is almost 100% organic matter, as opposed to the clay, sand, and loam particles that make up real dirt.

Our county extension agent is now spearheading a drive to measure some factors differently, as so many people are now doing similar things, whether using raised beds over city soil, patio planters, or whatever.

The rest of the test was very useful though, especially knowing that no phosphorus or potassium would be needed for the next several years. 🤪
 
My soil tests were/are hysterically off in some areas, as the top six-eight inches aren’t actually soil, but what I call “fancy dirt” - bagged composted cow manure, shredded bark, etc. the section on “organic matter” was very low, apparently because there’s practically no mineral content from actual dirt, so the ratio they use is off. In fact, the stuff I plant in is almost 100% organic matter, as opposed to the clay, sand, and loam particles that make up real dirt.

Our county extension agent is now spearheading a drive to measure some factors differently, as so many people are now doing similar things, whether using raised beds over city soil, patio planters, or whatever.

The rest of the test was very useful though, especially knowing that no phosphorus or potassium would be needed for the next several years. 🤪

My garden is a fairly good size. I'm gonna have to measure it when I get my sample back to properly apply the amendments. My guess is about 15x70ish...or so. But, I'll get a good test sample. My garden is still a virgin. This past summer was only the second year in that spot. I've added some lime, and some 10-10-10 before, but has had no soil additives/conditioners. I do have a good looking brown/ashy soil. It grew superb tobacco plants in the past. I do plan on adding some organic mixes to the tomato area this year though.
 
My garden is a fairly good size. I'm gonna have to measure it when I get my sample back to properly apply the amendments. My guess is about 15x70ish...or so. But, I'll get a good test sample. My garden is still a virgin. This past summer was only the second year in that spot. I've added some lime, and some 10-10-10 before, but has had no soil additives/conditioners. I do have a good looking brown/ashy soil. It grew superb tobacco plants in the past. I do plan on adding some organic mixes to the tomato area this year though.
Our underlying real soil is grey western NC clay, which is a thing to behold. Very fertile, but holy cow, it is DENSE!
 
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For the food gardeners, has anyone tried Six Shooter Corn, or Yukon Chief Corn? I live on the Cumberland Plateau between Nashville and Knoxville. Have not found the right corn yet for a bumper crop. Last year possibly just over spray from the corn fields across the road the neighbor grows in our fields. The Co-Op told him the wrong spray and his corn started falling over at the base. Mine produced but the stalks stunted and didn't produce like I thought they should anyway. I've got seed for both those varieties, but if I find something better, I may change up.

Yukon Chief is a 55 day corn with dwarf stalks developed for the short Alaska growing seasons. Gives an early southern harvest and can be seeded in cool ground. And followed with a warm weather later corn. Six Shooter, depending on your plant spacing and soil, can produce up to 6 ears per stalk. Both are open pollinated sweet varieties.

I'm also considering Stowells Evergreen in place of the Six Shooter.

It's hard to beat Stowells Evergreen for an heirloom corn. As long as you don't let it get too tough it is plenty sweet. I have raised it for several years now as a late summer/fall corn, and it does pretty good as long as it doesn't catch fire blight. The reason they call it an evergreen corn is because if you grow it late in the year and frost is coming you can pull up the stalks by the roots, hang it in a root cellar, and the ears will continue to ripen. It's a good survival corn.

I am going to raise Fishers earliest corn this year as my early season corn. You can plant it early (late March - early April) like Golden Bantam, and it thrives in 70 and 80 degree weather. It was developed to do well in Montana, so for here it would be a spring or fall corn. We'll see how it goes.

If you were raising a corn that is developed for cooler climates I would bet that it may struggle in the hot summers here. If you want a hybrid corn that nearly always produces well then Golden Queen, Silver Queen, and peaches and cream are tops. Plant in early May for an outstanding July harvest. Plant spacing should be 18 inches per plant if you have poorer soil, two every 18 inches if you have better soil.
 
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I feel like I already know the answer to this question, but is it really worth it starting from seed instead of buying already grown plants from local garden centers? I might have to do one, but the others I think I can find. I’m quite new to growing plants (not extremely new to it) and don’t have a ton of experience with it so I figure buying them already grown a little might be the best choice.

It depends on what you want to grow and how you want to do it honestly. I recommend always purchasing any fruit tree or shrub from a grower obviously. This includes grapes and strawberries too. If it's got a woody stem, then buy it so you can be guaranteed you get exactly what you want.

For veggies, the best results are generally to just plant seed in the ground and thin to the strongest one, though tomatoes and peppers do fine bought as plants obviously. Mellons of all types do well either planted directly in the ground or set out as transplants. I do not recommend purchasing squash or okra as seedlings for example. You get much better yield from these sowing them directly in the ground.

I have even planted my tomatoes as seed directly in the garden. Plant 4 or 5 seeds per hill in mid April, and thin to the strongest one. As the summer heats up though, this method will not work very well unless you want to water every day until they come up.
 
It's hard to beat Stowells Evergreen for an heirloom corn. As long as you don't let it get too tough it is plenty sweet. I have raised it for several years now as a late summer/fall corn, and it does pretty good as long as it doesn't catch fire blight. The reason they call it an evergreen corn is because if you grow it late in the year and frost is coming you can pull up the stalks by the roots, hang it in a root cellar, and the ears will continue to ripen. It's a good survival corn.

I am going to raise Fishers earliest corn this year as my early season corn. You can plant it early (late March - early April) like Golden Bantam, and it thrives in 70 and 80 degree weather. It was developed to do well in Montana, so for here it would be a spring or fall corn. We'll see how it goes.

If you were raising a corn that is developed for cooler climates I would bet that it may struggle in the hot summers here. If you want a hybrid corn that nearly always produces well then Golden Queen, Silver Queen, and peaches and cream are tops. Plant in early May for an outstanding July harvest. Plant spacing should be 18 inches per plant if you have poorer soil, two every 18 inches if you have better soil.

Screen grabbing this!👍
 
Screen grabbing this!👍

A couple of other notes: Always plant corn in blocks.....at least 4 rows side by side preferably at least 15 to 20 feet long so that you get good pollination. If you grow the silver/golden Queen corn you can buy both types and let them mix by planting one row of silver queen, then a row of golden queen then a row of silver queen, then a row of golden queen side by side by side by side. The result is some ears that mix very well and look like peaches and cream corn, some mostly white, some all yellow, and some a butter color. I've done that for years, and no matter what it looks like it is all delicious.
 
A couple of other notes: Always plant corn in blocks.....at least 4 rows side by side preferably at least 15 to 20 feet long so that you get good pollination. If you grow the silver/golden Queen corn you can buy both types and let them mix by planting one row of silver queen, then a row of golden queen then a row of silver queen, then a row of golden queen side by side by side by side. The result is some ears that mix very well and look like peaches and cream corn, some mostly white, some all yellow, and some a butter color. I've done that for years, and no matter what it looks like it is all delicious.
Is the taste of each variety different and consistent.
 
Is the taste of each variety different and consistent.

Silver Queen and Golden Queen taste the same. High sugar content. Same for Peaches and Cream, these varieties are very consistent.

Generally speaking, with heirloom sweet corns you have to pick and eat them at the right time or they lose sugar, particular the Bantam varieties.

Damaun KS Super Sweet Corn

I want to try this heirloom corn, but they were sold out. Supposedly just as sweet as hybrids.
 
Silver Queen and Golden Queen taste the same. High sugar content. Same for Peaches and Cream, these varieties are very consistent.

Generally speaking, with heirloom sweet corns you have to pick and eat them at the right time or they lose sugar, particular the Bantam varieties.

Damaun KS Super Sweet Corn

I want to try this heirloom corn, but they were sold out. Supposedly just as sweet as hybrids.

I saw that one too, but also sold out. My dad as an Ag man always did the Gold & Silver Queen reliably. I may go to that. I'm just a tad curious about planting other varieties, and heirloom stuff.
 
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Silver Queen and Golden Queen taste the same. High sugar content. Same for Peaches and Cream, these varieties are very consistent.

Generally speaking, with heirloom sweet corns you have to pick and eat them at the right time or they lose sugar, particular the Bantam varieties.

Damaun KS Super Sweet Corn

I want to try this heirloom corn, but they were sold out. Supposedly just as sweet as hybrids.

Update: Found this corn in stock on Etsy (Box Garden Seed) & turtletreeseed.com
 
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Hierloom vs Hybrid

Will Silver Queen come back true from seed? As far as I know the answer is no. It's a hybrid. But seed vendors and gardeners have started calling it an heirloom.
Just doesn't fit what I have always believed which is that heirlooms came back true from seed.
 
Hierloom vs Hybrid

Will Silver Queen come back true from seed? As far as I know the answer is no. It's a hybrid. But seed vendors and gardeners have started calling it an heirloom.
Just doesn't fit what I have always believed which is that heirlooms came back true from seed.
Ah yes, why trying to search on the interwebz for plants and seeds can get “interesting.”

I’ve seen “heirloom hybrid” to describe F1 hybrids that have been planted for years and years, but aren’t insanely expensive and/or fanatically protected by the developer.
 

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