Neyland re-sodding underway

#126
#126
Volador said:
Any of you professional Sodologists know what TYPE of Sod the UTAD is placing down on top of that dirt pile?

Bentgrass
Kentucky Bluegrass
Rough Bluegrass
Red Fescue
Annual Ryegrass
Perennial Ryegrass
Centipede
Tall Fescue
Zoysiagrass

Some of these grasses have a shorter root base vs longer root base while other root systems are more horizontal than vertical. Some are more prone to perform better in full sun vs partial shade. Some do better in cooler weather than warmer weather and vice versa. It's not just sod being put down - it has a name and just wondering if any of you know the answer or can make an educated guess?
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None of the above most likely some cultivar of Bermuda but you never know:

Bentgrass: too hot and does not wear well
Blue grass: too hot during football season but it is aggressive, wears very well
Fescue: does not wear well, not very drought tolerant, does not spread laterally
Centipede: in hot weather it likes a little shade, very slow growing, does not wear well
Rye annual or perennial: too hot, perennial is a misnomer it is generally does not regenerate it is just a much deeper green, wears well
Zoysia: very slow growing, very high maintenance
 
#127
#127
419 Bermuda is a decent option but let's not get carried away. It is nothing more than an improved version of common Bermuda; slightly greener, slightly lower mowing height. I would assume it is going to be mowed to around 1/2- 3/4 of an inch roughly the height of most fairways. There is a huge difference between the Tif varieties that include Tif419 and common 419 Bermuda used in many lawns. It is much more expensive and is mowed at a much lower height than most home owners mow. In general it requires a much higher maintenance.
 
#128
#128
Sports turf like a football field takes a much more centralized, intense usage, than most golf courses but some hillbilly municipal courses take quite a beating when you consider the drinking, golf cart driving, and drought they endure as well hahaha
 
#129
#129
landscapingvol said:
None of the above most likely some cultivar of Bermuda but you never know:

Bentgrass: too hot and does not wear well
Blue grass: too hot during football season but it is aggressive, wears very well
Fescue: does not wear well, not very drought tolerant, does not spread laterally
Centipede: in hot weather it likes a little shade, very slow growing, does not wear well
Rye annual or perennial: too hot, perennial is a misnomer it is generally does not regenerate it is just a much deeper green, wears well
Zoysia: very slow growing, very high maintenance
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what were they using when they weren't having these problems,if you know :hi:
 
#131
#131
thanks Boca :hi:

is this the same grass as the last Grounds Keeper used ? I assume it is ?
 
#133
#133
landscapingvol said:
Fescue: does not wear well, not very drought tolerant, does not spread laterally
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Umm....Tall fescue (the endophyte-infected varieties) is THE most popular cool-season pasture grass in the southeast because it is MUCH more drought, traffic, disease, and pest tolerant than other grass species. It is a bunchgrass but absolutely does spread laterally - in fact, its primary method of spreading/reproducing is via rhizomes, not seed.

Now, I'm not saying that it is an ideal field turf grass - it isn't - but the information you posted above is not at all accurate.
 
#134
#134
mdrew27 said:
You can't compare golfers to a football game. Please think about it.
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I get your point, but most that play the game are not golfers, but more along the line of GUI hackers. Well that could be the hicks I associate with.

Jump higher Vols.
 
#135
#135
mdrew27 said:
You can't compare golfers to a football game. Please think about it.
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You are right golf courses take much more abuse overall. Lets see you have a 4-600 pound cart with 2 adults adding what another 4-800 pounds. The course I was at normally had 80 carts on the course at any time. Watching them you will see that 80% are hacks that all enter the fairway at the same point within a 10 foot area. 60% of those hacks are wasted by about hole # 4 so in the mornings when the dew is still out you have them acting like idiots sliding the carts sideways to park it. Then you can add all of those hacks that like to dig ditch divots and not place sand or anything back. I am just pointing out that golf courses are able to maintain with constant abuse. Surely they can find a way to maintain a field that gets played on less than 10 times a year. Maybe they need to look at sprigging instead of resodding.
 
#136
#136
I wish some of you guys were my next-door neighbor. My lawn would charitably be described as bermuda-and-clover supported by weeds. Less charitably, weeds supported by bermuda-and-clover.

And now there's some weird blue-green stuff popping up in the more clay-ish parts of the lawn. No idea what that is.

Would love to have the grass-growing genius of this thread at my weekly disposal. :)
 
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#137
#137
VFL-82-JP said:
I wish some of you guys were my next-door neighbor. My lawn would charitably be described as bermuda-and-clover supported by weeds. Less charitably, weeds supported by bermuda-and-clover.

And now there's some weird blue-green stuff popping up in the more clay-ish parts of the lawn. No idea what that is.

Would love to have the grass-growing genius of this thread at my weekly disposal. :)
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HiYeild weed and feed.
 
#138
#138
AUVol said:
Umm....Tall fescue (the endophyte-infected varieties) is THE most popular cool-season pasture grass in the southeast because it is MUCH more drought, traffic, disease, and pest tolerant than other grass species. It is a bunchgrass but absolutely does spread laterally - in fact, its primary method of spreading/reproducing is via rhizomes, not seed.

Now, I'm not saying that it is an ideal field turf grass - it isn't - but the information you posted above is not at all accurate.
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It does not spread laterally you dolt or fill in gaps and August is not the cool season. Bermuda rarely spreads by seed it spreads by stolon or runners.
 
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#139
#139
“I mean this is some of the highest quality grass in the United States,” [UT director of sports surfaces] Darren Seybold said. :)
 
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#142
#142
Sounds like a few on here know a little bit about this kind of stuff so I have a question. Is there a hybrid artificial/natural system out there?

It seems that if you sprigged through an artificial system that maybe had a mesh and each line of "mesh" had the artificial strands on it. Then the grass would grow in between. The mesh would give it strength, like rebar in concrete.

It would be a mess to remove, but who cares?
 
#143
#143
Pump Guy said:
Sounds like a few on here know a little bit about this kind of stuff so I have a question. Is there a hybrid artificial/natural system out there?

It seems that if you sprigged through an artificial system that maybe had a mesh and each line of "mesh" had the artificial strands on it. Then the grass would grow in between. The mesh would give it strength, like rebar in concrete.

It would be a mess to remove, but who cares?
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I think it's called DD Grassmaster. The Packers use it. The Broncos may also or have in the past use it.

It takes natural grass and weaves in synthetic fibers.
 
#144
#144
VFL-82-JP said:
I wish some of you guys were my next-door neighbor. My lawn would charitably be described as bermuda-and-clover supported by weeds. Less charitably, weeds supported by bermuda-and-clover.

And now there's some weird blue-green stuff popping up in the more clay-ish parts of the lawn. No idea what that is.

Would love to have the grass-growing genius of this thread at my weekly disposal. :)
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Sounds to me like you need to double re-sod your lawn with the Hamburg 237 variety grass. I'd sprinkle in some Jamaica 420 to help structure the fibers in the Hamburg and be sure to rip that blue-green stuff out by the roots or your lawn will be yellow by the end of the summer.
 
#146
#146
Coug said:
It in fact is Bermuda 419.

"We found it's the same grass as last year. It's called Bermuda 419."
New Grass for Shields Watkins Field



Even better, a video!

Crews laying new turf at Neyland Stadium | WBIR.com
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Hate to be overly critical and overly dramatic at the same time. But why in the hell are the same people in charge of the field again this year after being responsible for the utterly horrific field conditions from last year. What the hey? Is this for real? More sand is the answer?
 
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#148
#148
VFL-82-JP said:
I wish some of you guys were my next-door neighbor. My lawn would charitably be described as bermuda-and-clover supported by weeds. Less charitably, weeds supported by bermuda-and-clover.

And now there's some weird blue-green stuff popping up in the more clay-ish parts of the lawn. No idea what that is.

Would love to have the grass-growing genius of this thread at my weekly disposal. :)
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Maybe they should plant clover and weeds in Neyland to support the bermuda...it couldn't be worse than last year's field.:crazy:
 
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#149
#149
ButchPlz, dude, I really appreciate you. But here's what you said:

ButchPlz said:
Sounds to me like you need to double re-sod your lawn with the Hamburg 237 variety grass. I'd sprinkle in some Jamaica 420 to help structure the fibers in the Hamburg and be sure to rip that blue-green stuff out by the roots or your lawn will be yellow by the end of the summer.
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...and here's what I heard:

ButchPlz said:
You gonna have to work your azz off, man, I mean hours and hours out in that dang yard doing all kinds of crap that you won't know if it worked until weeks or months later for the most part, meantime you're gonna be more exhausted than you ever been since you retired from the Army.
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And I guess that explains why my lawn is half clover, half Bermuda, and half weeds. I'm just too dang lazy. :)

Now if you were my next-door-neighbor, and I could get at it one step at a time, with constant advice, reassurance and encouragement, I might give it a go. Especially if I could get you to help, heh. :hi:
 
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#150
#150
orangeluvr said:
Fertilizing the new sod with the new Miracle -Gro +Viagra formula will accelerate root growth and produce a strong root system. Achieving maximum rootage before opening day is an absolute must.
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The grass blades will be more erect and resist early pullout.
 
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