Carpenter bees

#52

Thrasher865

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#52
I stained the whole deck, even the parts that aren't visible. I mean obviously I didn't go as far as staining the joists other than the end joists, but they're eating right through the stain.
 
#53

vollygirl

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#53
I stained the whole deck, even the parts that aren't visible. I mean obviously I didn't go as far as staining the joists other than the end joists, but they're eating right through the stain.
You need to put a coat of poly on it or something. Stain doesn't provide any kind of barrier. Unless it was one that is like stain + protection or something?
 
#55

Thrasher865

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#55
Yes, VG, it is a stain & sealant.

Lol, it would take thousands of them over several years to even begin to lessen the structural integrity. My grandfathers barn is still standing and it's a hot bed for them. Been there for 40 years.
I can tell you that's not true, because the bottom board of the railing is only a 2x4, and their tunnels are easily a cm in diameter. Just one is enough to potentially weaken the board enough to where some jackass will stand up on it and it will break. It would be an easy fix, but still frustrating, beceause I'd have to stain the new board, unscrew all the balusters and then replace it. Now, in the joists, it would probably take a couple overlapping ones, but if those things were to bore vertically all the way through the board, you bet your ass it would weaken it.

The fact that the barn has hundreds of nests bored out of it is inconsequential. You don't have to weaken the whole board/post. You only have to substantially weaken it in one spot for it to fail.
 
#58

thehardknoxlife

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#58
Yes, VG, it is a stain & sealant.



I can tell you that's not true, because the bottom board of the railing is only a 2x4, and their tunnels are easily a cm in diameter. Just one is enough to potentially weaken the board enough to where some jackass will stand up on it and it will break. It would be an easy fix, but still frustrating, beceause I'd have to stain the new board, unscrew all the balusters and then replace it. Now, in the joists, it would probably take a couple overlapping ones, but if those things were to bore vertically all the way through the board, you bet your ass it would weaken it.

The fact that the barn has hundreds of nests bored out of it is inconsequential. You don't have to weaken the whole board/post. You only have to substantially weaken it in one spot for it to fail.
They don't tunnel against the grain. They tunnel with the grain. The hole usually starts on the bottom then takes a 90 degree angle with the grain about an inch in. Cut an inch off a 2 x 4, is it still strong? It would take years for bees to completely hollow out the bottom of a board lol.
 
#59

vollygirl

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#59
They don't tunnel against the grain. They tunnel with the grain. The hole usually starts on the bottom then takes a 90 degree angle with the grain about an inch in. Cut an inch off a 2 x 4, is it still strong? It would take years for bees to completely hollow out the bottom of a board lol.
I don't care how long it takes. They aren't paying me rent and the eviction notice has been served.
 
#61

Thrasher865

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#61
They don't tunnel against the grain. They tunnel with the grain. The hole usually starts on the bottom then takes a 90 degree angle with the grain about an inch in. Cut an inch off a 2 x 4, is it still strong? It would take years for bees to completely hollow out the bottom of a board lol.
Okay, well regardless, the bottom of a vertically loaded member in bending is the last place you want to have a hole bored out. Plus, who wants a deck with a bunch of holes in it? I feel like you're missing the point. Some other fine bugs will pollinate the garden. As far as these things are concerned, EFF them.
 
#67

JustFunnN'Orange

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#67
The Carpenter Bee Trap works!!
In your browser, Local Sales Network or LSN. Its like the Craigslist of the Cookeville area. In the site browser type "bee trap" etc. and there are a few people that make and sell them on the site.
The trick is a hole bored at a 45 degree angle into a block of untreated wood. The 45* angle intersects another (at least 1" hole bored into the center of the block of wood. At the bottom of this hole is a glass jar attached with a hole in the top.
The theory is - the bee lands on a tasty piece of wood, finds an existing hole, enters to set up housekeeping, goes into the larger hole and eventually the jar and cant figure out an escape route. Don't empty the dead bees from the jar. Their smell invites others.
My description may be hard to understand but once you see the trap its simple. And it works.
Hope this helps
 
#68

IPleadInsanity

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#68
I am at personal war with a nest of these bees now. Beat then hands down last year but they have returned for a rematch. Its a simple matter of attrition, you must kill them faster then they can reproduce. Swatting them with a tennis racquet works best for me. They slow down and hover before entering the nest and can easily be decapitated by a smooth swing. I use the traps as well but swatting them works faster and is a lot more fun!
 
#70

CopperHead_Vol

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#70
I went mad minute on the Carpenter bees out in my pole-barn using 22lr rat-shot ammo. I pulled the farm truck in, sat on the tailgate, un-assed my single action Ruger Bearcat pistol and had a blast.

Ironically, I peppered and busted the mason jar on one of the bee traps, while shooting a bee. Not sure what that means but with my luck it is really bad mojo.

Be Safe,

CH_V
 
#72

vollygirl

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#72
I got a zapper shaped like a racket. The zapper didn't work, but swinging the racket is satisfying. Should have enjoyed it more before I put the trap out. :lol:
 
#73

JustFunnN'Orange

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#73
Ha Ha! Rat shot is a great idea. Ive used a tennis racquet also but I tire with the wait.
Copperhead U should be able to screw a new jar onto the lid attached to the trap
 

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