The "It's 2 am and we talkin renovation" thread

#78
#78
I got rid of the octagon tile in my bathrooms cause it looks so old and tired.
I think it looks great when it’s used in an old fashioned setting. Doesn’t work so well in a 50’s or 80’s house.

I just don’t like the high contrast of the black dots. The one at Lowe’s that GVF mentioned with grey dots looks great. I remember looking at it, but I was trying to give my builder a break (those octagon mosaics can drive you crazy to lay out)
 
#79
#79
I got rid of the octagon tile in my bathrooms cause it looks so old and tired.

It has it's places. Mine is a 90 year old simple farm house, that was tiled in boring slate colored floor tile on floor and shower. This fits the house. It's not for every bathroom.
 
#80
#80
I think it looks great when it’s used in an old fashioned setting. Doesn’t work so well in a 50’s or 80’s house.

I just don’t like the high contrast of the black dots. The one at Lowe’s that GVF mentioned with grey dots looks great. I remember looking at it, but I was trying to give my builder a break (those octagon mosaics can drive you crazy to lay out)

They are easy to layout, as long as you are in the open floor. They are pre-glued to mesh backing in 12x12 mats. They are a pain at the walls when its time for cuts. Screw your builder. You're paying.
 
#81
#81
Ok, this is polished ming green marble with white bars and grey dots, 12x12 mosaic, on the walls and a Koehler cast-iron shower bases with porcelain glaze. Pretty sure Rob used the Redgard system. Tile Redi double Redi Niche. Schluter edging where the tile ends. It is very solid, no flexing in the walls, and certainly not in the base.

Don’t know why the pic is so yellow. It’s a soft green and grey.

View attachment 251011
Redgard or Hydro Ban. they both are simple and good products. I used hydro ban in mine. Don't have to use the mesh tape, but you can. I filled all seams and corners below the water line of the shower.

That's a nice looking shower. Contractor did good job. Very custom layout. You paid premium labor for that. I wouldn't have charge less than $8 square foot just for labor to lay that pattern. I like that he went to solid surface pieces in the soap recesses. Good look. I normally tile them. (Not a full time tiler, but my brother was, and I did a lot of side jobs. I can miss an elephant walking down the road, but I won't miss a grout line being off).
 
#82
#82
They are easy to layout, as long as you are in the open floor. They are pre-glued to mesh backing in 12x12 mats. They are a pain at the walls when its time for cuts. Screw your builder. You're paying.
We wound up going with basketweave, also in the 12x12 mosaics, because we wanted to stay with the same ming green marble. He got plenty cross-eyed with that!
1578066838220.jpeg
 
#83
#83
They are easy to layout, as long as you are in the open floor. They are pre-glued to mesh backing in 12x12 mats. They are a pain at the walls when its time for cuts. Screw your builder. You're paying.
I have become "not a fan" of the glued on stuff. I used it on a backsplash a couple of times and found that the consistency of the glue job was terrible. The tiles were unevenly glued (height wise) or they would fall off. For cuts I just marked them and then peeled off the ones that needed to be cut. Glued them to the wall as individual pieces. We are getting ready to get rid of some formica and put in marble. It will be backsplash time again.
 
#85
#85
Redgard or Hydro Ban. they both are simple and good products. I used hydro ban in mine. Don't have to use the mesh tape, but you can. I filled all seams and corners below the water line of the shower.

That's a nice looking shower. Contractor did good job. Very custom layout. You paid premium labor for that. I wouldn't have charge less than $8 square foot just for labor to lay that pattern. I like that he went to solid surface pieces in the soap recesses. Good look. I normally tile them. (Not a full time tiler, but my brother was, and I did a lot of side jobs. I can miss an elephant walking down the road, but I won't miss a grout line being off).
Thanks! We kicked around the soap recesses (good eye!) and went with the fake marble threshold material for both ease of installation and cleaning.

Rob is fanatically meticulous, but I felt that trying to cut 5/8” tile squares in those tiny spaces to match the tile in back AND align somewhat reasonably with the large format shower wall tile would just be way more trouble than it would be worth. So I just went back to Lowe’s (HD?) and grabbed them. They seemed good to work with for this sort of thing.
 
#86
#86
That looks good. Surprised you didn’t tile the floor. Plenty of bars to keep from falling down. 🙂
 
#88
#88
I have become "not a fan" of the glued on stuff. I used it on a backsplash a couple of times and found that the consistency of the glue job was terrible. The tiles were unevenly glued (height wise) or they would fall off. For cuts I just marked them and then peeled off the ones that needed to be cut. Glued them to the wall as individual pieces. We are getting ready to get rid of some formica and put in marble. It will be backsplash time again.
I think I read a lot of grumpy comments about the octagon dot tile in this regard.

I did the layout and picked the tile specifically to minimize cuts. For instance, the white bars on the wall tile could be popped off in the corners.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 82_VOL_83
#89
#89
That looks good. Surprised you didn’t tile the floor. Plenty of bars to keep from falling down. 🙂
Ha ha! Rob advised the one-piece cast iron base for structural integrity. And I liked having the strong visual contrast marking where the walls end and floors begin. (I’ve become really aware of how cognitive decline in the elderly contribute to falls.)
 
#91
#91
Is that surface texture in the marble or is it an applique?
Which surface texture? The floor and shower walls are polished marble; pretty sure it’s tumbled in the soap niches.

If you mean the shower floor, it’s porcelain with an anti-slip etched in (geeze, the plumbers sure tracked in the mud; it’s scrubbing time.)

Hubs is out of shower:

1578068182139.jpeg

1578068225274.jpeg
 
#92
#92
Which surface texture? The floor and shower walls are polished marble; pretty sure it’s tumbled in the soap niches.

If you mean the shower floor, it’s porcelain with an anti-slip etched in (geeze, the plumbers sure tracked in the mud; it’s scrubbing time.)

Hubs is out of shower:

View attachment 251447

View attachment 251448
So that's a molded non-slip? Was going to ask how it cleaned up. Never had a lot of luck with that.
 
  • Like
Reactions: VolNExile
#93
#93
How close to Madisonville, KY are you? Want to do another shower? :D:D:D
lol, Asheville’s a nice drive!

And I hope to never do another kitchen-bath remodel again.

The marble is from Elon Tile in Connecticut (terrible webste), ordered through WNC Ceramic Tile.
 
#95
#95
So that's a molded non-slip? Was going to ask how it cleaned up. Never had a lot of luck with that.
I’m scared of splashing onto the marble and etching it, but I’m going to have to put on my big-girl panties and take it on!
 
#96
#96
I’m scared of splashing onto the marble and etching it, but I’m going to have to put on my big-girl panties and take it on!
You should be OK for a while with soft scrub.....we have and had have poured marble. If it dulls, you can bring it back with super fine steel wool but it's a chore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: VolNExile
#97
#97
I have become "not a fan" of the glued on stuff. I used it on a backsplash a couple of times and found that the consistency of the glue job was terrible. The tiles were unevenly glued (height wise) or they would fall off. For cuts I just marked them and then peeled off the ones that needed to be cut. Glued them to the wall as individual pieces. We are getting ready to get rid of some formica and put in marble. It will be backsplash time again.

Those mosaics have to be pre-glued to a mesh backing to even be realistically workable. Doesn't hinder a good install. Any tiler worth his salt knows you use the rubber float you will be grouting with to tamp down the mosaics on the mesh sheets to make sure all are seated properly and even. There's not a single tile on my bathroom floor uneven with the rest. When you tear them off the mesh and set individually is when they get uneven. And you will have to because of the cuts, but that's along the edges. And grouting locks it all in. If you had uneven tiles or tiles falling off, you had a bad install.

Same here on cuts. Most have to be peeled off. Except with full rip cuts can leave all intact on mesh backing and it still cuts fine on wet saw.
 
#98
#98
So that's a molded non-slip? Was going to ask how it cleaned up. Never had a lot of luck with that.

Yeah, but I think he said it was cast iron/porcelin. Standard cleaners should be OK.
 
Those mosaics have to be pre-glued to a mesh backing to even be realistically workable. Doesn't hinder a good install. Any tiler worth his salt knows you use the rubber float you will be grouting with to tamp down the mosaics on the mesh sheets to make sure all are seated properly and even. There's not a single tile on my bathroom floor uneven with the rest. When you tear them off the mesh and set individually is when they get uneven. And you will have to because of the cuts, but that's along the edges. And grouting locks it all in. If you had uneven tiles or tiles falling off, you had a bad install.

Same here on cuts. Most have to be peeled off. Except with full rip cuts can leave all intact on mesh backing and it still cuts fine on wet saw.
If the tiles fell off before they even got put on the wall it has nothing to do with the install. I bought the tile at Lowe's and at HD. There wasn't enough tamping in the world to level some of the glue drops out. Yeah, the full cuts I leave on, it's the intricate one's that go around electrical boxes etc. that have to be peeled. I've never to this day had a tile "peel" off after I installed it so don't know what you are talking about.
 
Advertisement





Back
Top