The Golf Thread

#176
#176
Good luck. Most of the time when I slice (I rarely do because I have a little bit of a gut) it is because my body gets through the ball, but my hands are behind my body. That leaves the club face open a bit. If you think about getting your hands through a little faster you might turn your slice into a slight fade.
 
#177
#177
Yup, sounds like my problem. I'm a little overweight, but no gut. I have strong strong legs, but haven't really developed the right timing of getting my hips through, and especially, my hands.
 
#178
#178
Take a club out in the yard and practice your swing. Concentrate on transfering your weight. On you backswing feel the majority of your weight on your back leg. On your downswing concentrate on moving the weight to your front leg. If you do it enough it will become second nature, and you should notice some extra distance.

Disclaimer: I am not a golf coach. A lot of people teach a more balanced swing, but I say if you have the lowerbody strength you might as well use it. I have found the above exercise to dramatically improve my accuracy off of the tee.
 
#179
#179
Slices are so common that usually 1 lesson with a Pro is enough to at least figure out what causes it. Usually it's a fundamental issue that can be fixed fairly easily.
 
#180
#180
VIA, i noticed in that ebay ad you were looking at it was also a steel shaft. GA is right, go around 10.5-11 degree or even above to help get it up and control the ball, but definitely above all else get a graphite shaft. if your swing speed is around 95 mph or higher, go w/ a stiff shaft, otherwise stick with a regular graphite shaft. The weight (or lack there of) will help you tremendously, and also you can get added distance....

for whoever asked what we're hitting, i'm the proud new papa of a one year old 9.5 degree Titleist 905T with a UST Proforce V2 75 shaft. I'm bombing it right now, just still learning how to work the ball with it. It's a huge upgrade from my old 975D.

(ps, i'm proud to say i'm once again posting from the great state of Tennessee!!!)
 
#181
#181
I played yesterday and shot a 79....dang proud of that:rock:

but my golf shoes gave the heels of my feet blisters and it's killing me which means I have to get new shoes :banghead2:
 
#183
#183
GAVol said:
I wish my "God given ability" would allow me to hook it occasionally. I couldn't draw my driver consistently if my life depended on it. The shaft in my Driver is probably too heavy and the loft too low, but I kind of like it because I pretty much can go after it and know that the left side of the golf course is not in play off the tee for me.
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You should check out Golf Works..
2005 MPF Shaft Playability Ratings - The GolfWorks

Do the Maltby playabilty factor, and it will match you to the correct shaft for your swing.

I switched from a UST shaft to a Graphite Design in my Titelist, and it helped my consistency off the tee.
 
#185
#185
VIA

I would also go get measured for a set of clubs. Spec stuff works for very few people. As to the drivers, the technology leap there is dramatic over the old Firesole stuff. I would get one of the more modern drivers that have unbelievable levels of forgiveness.

I personally hit an older model, but it's still 395cc and dwarfs my old 975D. I hit a TM 510 TP with Fuji Speeder X. Irons are MacGregor VIP 1025 MBs that I am in love with and they have Rifle Project X 6.5's in them. (by the by, you might see that I believe the shafts and fit to be the most important part of the club. Nothing will work well if the shafts lofts and lies don't fit your move) Wedges are a very personal thing like putters, but just make sure the lie is correct for you. I personally carry a 60 and 54 with a 48 PW. Used to carry 4 wedges with less separation in loft, but I can no longer keep the 2 iron hybrid out of the bag (cause I hit fairways with it, even on bad days).
 
#186
#186
BigPapaVol said:
VIA

I would also go get measured for a set of clubs. Spec stuff works for very few people. As to the drivers, the technology leap there is dramatic over the old Firesole stuff. I would get one of the more modern drivers that have unbelievable levels of forgiveness.

I personally hit an older model, but it's still 395cc and dwarfs my old 975D. I hit a TM 510 TP with Fuji Speeder X. Irons are MacGregor VIP 1025 MBs that I am in love with and they have Rifle Project X 6.5's in them. (by the by, you might see that I believe the shafts and fit to be the most important part of the club. Nothing will work well if the shafts lofts and lies don't fit your move) Wedges are a very personal thing like putters, but just make sure the lie is correct for you. I personally carry a 60 and 54 with a 48 PW. Used to carry 4 wedges with less separation in loft, but I can no longer keep the 2 iron hybrid out of the bag (cause I hit fairways with it, even on bad days).
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Nike 53 and a Titleist 60 here. I usually hit my 53 from 120-80 and use my 60 from 79 in. I never thought I would hit a nike club, but my 53 is my baby.
 
#187
#187
Lexvol said:
Nike 53 and a Titleist 60 here. I usually hit my 53 from 120-80 and use my 60 from 79 in. I never thought I would hit a nike club, but my 53 is my baby.
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How are you so long with the irons, yet hitting graphite bubbles (which aren't a very good or very strong shaft)
 
#188
#188
Lexvol said:
Nike 53 and a Titleist 60 here. I usually hit my 53 from 120-80 and use my 60 from 79 in. I never thought I would hit a nike club, but my 53 is my baby.
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wedges are just different.

Tiger's current Nike irons are the spitting image of my old Mizuno MP-9s and were likely made in the same shop. I think most of the clubmakers use a third party to stamp their heads, especially at the high end of their lines.
 
#189
#189
vol_in_ar said:
You should check out Golf Works..
2005 MPF Shaft Playability Ratings - The GolfWorks

Do the Maltby playabilty factor, and it will match you to the correct shaft for your swing.

I switched from a UST shaft to a Graphite Design in my Titelist, and it helped my consistency off the tee.
Click to expand...
I'd be very hesitant to use anything of this nature. Go hit 'em and pick the one that gives you the flight you're looking for. Too many variables for a someone to take stats and tell you what to hit.
 
#190
#190
Lexvol said:
Nike 53 and a Titleist 60 here.
Click to expand...

I'm actually considering taking my 60 out of the bag. I can lay my 56 open to where I can use it almost effectively, and my Mizuno irons are bent stronger than my old set, so I had to add a gap.

I just need to determine which of my 4i, hybrid, or 5 wood least deserves to be tossed in the lake, so for a while, I'll probably carry 16 clubs.
 
#191
#191
BigPapaVol said:
How are you so long with the irons, yet hitting graphite bubbles (which aren't a very good or very strong shaft)
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I personally think it is in my legs and shoulders, and most importantly swinging down on the ball. I am kinda built like a tree stump.
 
#192
#192
Lexvol said:
I personally think it is in my legs and shoulders, and most importantly swinging down on the ball. I am kinda built like a tree stump.
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I'm asking more about shaft choice than how you're long. Those graphite bubbles are some low torque, no consistency havin' rigs. Can't be good for a stronger player.
 
#193
#193
BigPapaVol said:
I'm asking more about shaft choice than how you're long. Those graphite bubbles are some low torque, no consistency havin' rigs. Can't be good for a stronger player.
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Are you trying to jinx me Papa? They have been stiff enough to handle my swing. I have played them for about 3 or 4 seasons now. I certainly "feel" the ball better than I have with any other irons that I have played. They aren't the senior flex rig you are making them out to be.
 
#194
#194
Lexvol said:
Are you trying to jinx me Papa? They have been stiff enough to handle my swing. I have played them for about 3 or 4 seasons now. I certainly "feel" the ball better than I have with any other irons that I have played. They aren't the senior flex rig you are making them out to be.
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I'm not saying that they are senior flex. But the specs on them are awfully light for a good iron shaft. Sounds like you hit it well and I'm just surprised by the shaft choice.

Listen, I'm all for stickin' with what works so I'm not jinxin' anything, but if we do ever find time to play a round with a couple of sheckels on it, I'll find a way to make you believe the shafts are your problem.
 
#195
#195
BigPapaVol said:
I'm not saying that they are senior flex. But the specs on them are awfully light for a good iron shaft. Sounds like you hit it well and I'm just surprised by the shaft choice.

Listen, I'm all for stickin' with what works so I'm not jinxin' anything, but if we do ever find time to play a round with a couple of sheckels on it, I'll find a way to make you believe the shafts are your problem.
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Playing for money is not my thing because it takes all of the joy out of the game. Loser buys beer and dinner. (I realize is close to the same thing, but it seems more friendly.)
 
#196
#196
Lexvol said:
Playing for money is not my thing because it takes all of the joy out of the game. Loser buys beer and dinner. (I realize is close to the same thing, but it seems more friendly.)
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surprisingly, all I ever wager is.....beer and dinner. wager doesn't take any joy from me, it just doesn't add anything either. I'm competitive enough not to need the wager to make it interesting
 
#197
#197
BigPapaVol said:
I'd be very hesitant to use anything of this nature. Go hit 'em and pick the one that gives you the flight you're looking for. Too many variables for a someone to take stats and tell you what to hit.
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Agreed you should hit them, but the playability factor will lead you to the correct flex, kick point and tip stiffness, to effect trajectory of the ball flight.

The correct shaft is more important that what degree your driver is.
 
#198
#198
vol_in_ar said:
Agreed you should hit them, but the playability factor will lead you to the correct flex, kick point and tip stiffness, to effect trajectory of the ball flight.

The correct shaft is more important that what degree your driver is.
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The shaft is certainly the major factor, but how it fits with the weight of the clubhead, length of shaft, quickness of player's tempo. Too many things to factor in and seven different "experts" would give seven different answers even though there's only one best answer.
 
#199
#199
as far as what balls I use, I just use what I can get. I went to a yard sale about a year ago and got a gallon bucket full of golf balls for 5 bucks. My clubs are Wilson Pro Staff's cavity back with graphite. I love them because they're so light weight but I gotta get a putter and a driver.

I can't hit my driver worth a crap. Usually use my 2 or 3 iron when teeing off :crazy:
 
#200
#200
sickemsmokey10 said:
as far as what balls I use, I just use what I can get. I went to a yard sale about a year ago and got a gallon bucket full of golf balls for 5 bucks. My clubs are Wilson Pro Staff's cavity back with graphite. I love them because they're so light weight but I gotta get a putter and a driver.

I can't hit my driver worth a crap. Usually use my 2 or 3 iron when teeing off :crazy:
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the premium balls are so long now that it makes little sense to play with the surlyn jobs.

If I were teeing off a lot with 2 or 3 irons, and I do, I would get myself a hybrid, and I did. Many good ones to choose from and the first generations ones are cheap and just as good as the current crop.
 
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