AR-15 Builders

#101
#101
I also have a good deal on a Sig 516 Patrol. A little more expensive, but it might be worth paying a little more for a quality rifle.
 
#102
#102
kiddiedoc said:
Newbie question: any recommendations on a base AR in the $800ish range? Looking at a Colt and S&W, figuring those are quality manufacturers.
Click to expand...

Colt. Without question.

The Sig is nice, but with a proprietary piston system, you are at the mercy of Sig for spare parts. Plus, there is no way of modifying the upper like you can with a standard impingement system.
 
#107
#107
I am a complete newbie when it comes to ARs. This thread has been great for educating myself on what I am looking for. I have just ordered a Spikes Tactical stripped lower receiver, and am researching the different components to purchase as my budget allows. Grand Vol, you mentioned earlier that you had a number of links you would recommend for buying various parts/and accessories. Would you mind sharing some of those? Thanks in advance!
 
#108
#108
UTVolinExile said:
I am a complete newbie when it comes to ARs. This thread has been great for educating myself on what I am looking for. I have just ordered a Spikes Tactical stripped lower receiver, and am researching the different components to purchase as my budget allows. Grand Vol, you mentioned earlier that you had a number of links you would recommend for buying various parts/and accessories. Would you mind sharing some of those? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Not GrandVol but I can share a couple of resources I've used.

Primary Arms
AR-15 & AK-47 Parts & Accessories | Primary Arms

Palmetto State Armory
Ammunition, AR15 Parts, Magazines, Bulk Ammo - Palmetto State Armory

Daytona Tactical
Daytona Tactical | 80% Lowers - Complete Rifle Kits - AR15 Pistol Kits

Monstrum Tactical (Rails and accessories)
Monstrum Tactical

Use Google, there's a bunch out there.
 
#109
#109
Kiddidoc,

You're in Knoxville I think. You should check out Fight Sheep Dog on Edgemoor road in Claxton. They are AR specialist and if you decide to order one they can handle the transfer. They do it for $20, $10 for the Transfer and $10 for the background check. They are super nice and very knowledgeable. They are setting up my trust for my SBR stamp.
 
#110
#110
UTVolinExile said:
I am a complete newbie when it comes to ARs. This thread has been great for educating myself on what I am looking for. I have just ordered a Spikes Tactical stripped lower receiver, and am researching the different components to purchase as my budget allows. Grand Vol, you mentioned earlier that you had a number of links you would recommend for buying various parts/and accessories. Would you mind sharing some of those? Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

I can give you the links for the lower parts I would recommend, but a lot of it is subjective. If you just want a plain, stock AR, this is what I'd recommend:

Lower parts kit and Fire Control Group

Receiver Extension, Spring, Receiver Plate and Castle Nut

Grip you are kind of on your own with as everyone has a personal preference in the matter. I'd suggest trying out several before buying.

H Buffer (you want the H buffer)

Stock is another personal preference, but if I had to suggest, I'd go with one of these two:

B5 Systems Sopmod Bravo

Magpul MOE

That gets the lower filled in. For the upper, just depends on what you want to do with it. I'm a huge fan of the mid length actions myself, but I also wouldn't turn my nose up at a carbine gas length either. I'm also a big fan of the gas block versus the front sight base (the A Frame), but one thing about the FSB is it won't break.

Give me a bit on some other recommendations and I'll try to put together a "Buying an AR primer" post.
 
#111
#111
Thanks to both inVOLuntary and Grand Vol, this is super helpful. I forgot to mention before, but I'm planning on a 20" barrel with a 1/9 twist and a free float rail.
 
#112
#112
UTVolinExile said:
Thanks to both inVOLuntary and Grand Vol, this is super helpful. I forgot to mention before, but I'm planning on a 20" barrel with a 1/9 twist and a free float rail.
Click to expand...

Long range gun? One thing Grand urged me to do was purchase a good trigger. The Geissele SSA is what he recommended and it was worth the 200 or so bucks.
 
#114
#114
Anybody shoot .300 blackout? If so, what are some thoughts? Im thinking about a build.
 
#115
#115
InVOLuntary said:
Long range gun? One thing Grand urged me to do was purchase a good trigger. The Geissele SSA is what he recommended and it was worth the 200 or so bucks.
Click to expand...

That's my thought, though it sounds like GV has a different point of view. Trigger is definitely something I've been researching, I personally like a light pull, but since I'm new to ARs, maybe something else would work better.

Looking forward to GVs update when he finishes it. :)
 
#116
#116
UTVolinExile said:
That's my thought, though it sounds like GV has a different point of view. Trigger is definitely something I've been researching, I personally like a light pull, but since I'm new to ARs, maybe something else would work better.

Looking forward to GVs update when he finishes it. :)
Click to expand...

I was going long on the barrel too but based on comments from Grand and a few others I decided 18 was adequate. That Geissele SSA is a two stage trigger. It has a little travel to a stop then a nice crisp pull after that. Several of these guys here are very good resources.
 
#119
#119
ACvol3 said:
As far as an AR platform goes, it seems pretty legit.. I don't see any real advantage of the 556 over it.
Click to expand...

It depends on what you're going to use it for. Everything cost more including ammo. Ammo is like 3 or 4 times more.
 
#121
#121
Far too often folks can get wrapped up and disgusted with the plethora of different models of AR15s on the market today. I’ll shoot some advice out with some lessons I’ve learned since I’ve been building them. And starting…

Quality > Price

More often than not, folks will see the price tag on some parts and end up shying away from buying known quality parts. But in the firearms world, cheap is not better on certain parts. Take the bolt carrier group (BCG) for example. Some manufacturers will cut corners, use different grades of steel and not take the extra time to perform the appropriate tests on the finished product. For example, the Technical Data Package for the M-4 (military version of the AR-15) states the bolt material is Carpenter 158 steel, shot peened, high pressure tested (HPT) and magnetic particle inspected (MPI) on an individual basis. However, some manufacturers will cut the corner and do batch testing. Which means they may test 10% coming off the line. Or use a different steel like 8620. Not to say the other grades like 8620 or 9310 aren’t as good as Carpenter 158, but at the same time, I’d prefer to use what the designer specified and what’s been under hard use conditions for over 50 years. Additionally, some manufacturers don’t really stake the gas key like they should. In order for a proper staking job to have been done, the sides of the gas key should be set firmly against the screws with a noticeable indention. This “locks” the screws into the bolt carrier itself and removes the possibility of them backing out.

Same goes for the receiver extension (commonly called the buffer tube) and the aluminum that’s used in it. Some manufacturers will use 6061 aluminum. And chances are it might last you a lifetime. But the standard is 7075 aluminum. So again, some cut corners to go cheap. And there are two different types on the market. The mil-spec and the commercial. Always, always, always go mil-spec. The diameter of the tubes is slightly different, but when it comes to aftermarket parts (discussed later) the difference in availability is huge.

And that brings us to barrels. Again, different grades and testing for them as well. The industry standard is a 4150 chrome lined, chrome-moly-vanadium (CMV) barrel that’s been HPT and MPI. But some use a lower grade 4140 steel. Again, might be okay, might not. Now the only exception to that rule is a Melonite coating some use in place of the chrome lining. Or sometimes you see it called salt bath nitriding. Those tend to be perfectly fine.

And the only other-other exception to the barrel steel rule is a stainless barrel. While those tend to be fairly heavy, they provide exceptional accuracy. A good rule of thumb is to go with the 416R stainless variety, quality versus price. There are also 410 stainless as well as 416 stainless varieties. However, the 416R has an additional component of molybdenum and a lower sulfur count than the other two. And has better cold weather performance.

Twist rates are entirely on the buyer, but I wouldn’t recommend anything higher than a 1:8 twist barrel. I prefer the 1:7 twist as it will stabilize everything from 52 grains to the high weight 77 grain bullets. The 1:8, from what I’ve read, does the same. I’d shy away from 1:9 twist since it’s not automatically going to stabilize grains over 68. Some do, some don’t. It’s just easier to buy a 1:7 or 1:8 and know it’s going to work.

Buy once, cry once

Again, price comes up a lot in these discussions. And honestly, a great many things are personal preference. Take the trigger for instance. Most can (and often do) get by with a standard mil-spec trigger. It’s functional and works. Just not my cup of tea. I tend to spend a bit more and get the ALG Defense QMS or ACT trigger. It’s a standard trigger that’s undergone additional polishing and doesn’t have the gritty feeling others do out of the box. It’s a “combat” trigger to use the term loosely and something I’d recommend. I wouldn’t recommend a match trigger starting out. Learn the system first, then go to your single or two stage match triggers.

Another buy once, cry once deal is the buffer. Far too many manufacturers toss in what’s known as a carbine buffer. It’ll get you by, but it’s, again, not what performs the best. To make a long story short, the buffer has three weights inside, a carbine has three steel, an H buffer has two steel and one tungsten, an H2 has one steel and two tungsten and an H3 is all tungsten. The H buffer is, again, what the book calls for. But I personally run an H2 myself. I’ve never fooled around with an H3 so I won’t even discuss it. But anyway, I would never recommend going lower than an H buffer in anything.

Recoil and action spring: This is kind of one of those parts that tends to get overlooked. Will a standard spring get you where you’re going? Sure. But again, the book says… Personally I use a Springco “Blue” in my builds. But not to say the chrome silicon “standard” won’t work perfectly fine. I’d avoid anything flat wire or anything that says “tuned” or “high performance” or “stainless steel” in the description.

Lower and upper parts groups are honestly one of those things that most don’t put much thought into. I’ve used Palmetto State Armory kits in all my builds and I really haven’t had any problems.

So to recap so far:

Barrel steel should be 4150 CMV chrome lined (or melonite) HPT and MPI tested
Or 416R stainless if you prefer
Bolt should be Carpenter 158 steel, shot peened and individually HPT and MPI tested.
Gas key should be properly staked
Receiver Extension should be 7075 aluminum and mil-spec diameter
Buffer should be an H type as a minimum
Recoil spring should be chrome-silicon as a minimum
Chamber should be 5.56mm or .223 Wylde

Wait! What’s this Wylde thing?

The chambering on any AR15 should be one of the first things one looks at. To be brief, a .223 chamber cannot reliably handle 5.56mm pressure loads. All mil-spec and surplus ammo is loaded to higher pressures than the commercial counterparts, so you run the risk of over pressuring the chamber which could end up with some nice fireworks by running 5.56mm in a .223 chambered rifle. So to avoid that…

Always go with a 5.56mm rated chamber. Now there is another option called the .223 Wylde. Which it basically has slightly different dimensions than a standard .223 and can safely handle higher pressure loads. It was designed for more accuracy with a greater strength so it’s perfectly acceptable in Grand’s world.

So remember: .223 = bad. 5.56 = good. .223 Wylde = perfectly okay with greater accuracy.

And when I say accuracy, I mean the longer range stuff. You very likely won’t have a noticeable difference at 100-200 yards.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 people
#122
#122
It’s like Barbie for men (and a lot of women)

One awesome thing about the AR platform is the ability to customize it however you want. Want a flat top? The world’s your oyster. Want a different grip? Five minute swap. Stock not sticking? Pull Tab A, remove, replace, have fun.

When it comes down to a lot of the remainder of the rifle, it’s on personal preference. Me? I stick with 16 inch barrels myself. There is really nothing to be gained on a 20 inch barrel as opposed to a 16 inch barrel unless you are going for long range accuracy. You really only gain about 100 or so feet per second more going up from a 16 to a 20. An 18 is a good compromise, but again, there’s not going to be any noticeable difference in the two unless you are, again, going for long range accuracy. And that requires your stainless barrel and a whole hoop of other items.

But back on point, there are literally dozens of types of grips, dozens of types of stocks, dozens of different kinds of handguards, sights, triggers, trigger guards, optics, muzzle devices and more. What works best? Eye of the beholder.

Sights. Whether or not you go with flip up sights depends on the optic used. With a standard rifle scope, flip ups are almost impossible to use. With a scout type scope, they become much easier. A red dot sight was designed with flip ups in mind, so they are a safe bet. I won’t go into particular brands, but generally the “big” names in the industry tend to put out some decent sets. However, I’d avoid any gimmicky types with crazy glow in the dark crosshairs and stick with the standard peep sights.

Optics. Most can get by with a standard red dot type optic and never look back. Magnified scopes are nice for precision work, though a good red dot or holographic scope will be perfectly fine out to 300 yards. Again, depends on the intended use of said rifle.

Stocks. Again, what’s comfortable to you. The very first thing I toss in the parts bin is the standard AR stock. Unless of course you’re dealing with a fixed stock variant. But collapsible stocks are pretty much standard and have endless possibilities with mil-spec diameter replacements. I tend to swear by B5 Systems and Magpul. But not to say there aren’t other brands out there that work. However, avoid Tapco like the plague. Or any cheap knock off that gets shipped from a warehouse in China. Or gimmicky types that really don’t make much sense.

Grips. Always what’s comfortable to you. Some use the A2 grip and never have a problem. Others swear by their chosen grip as it’s the greatest thing since sliced bread. I have my personal preference as it’s what “fits” my hands the best. So be sure to try different ones out before buying if you can. And stick to known name brands.

Muzzle devices. Most folks can use an A2 type device and never have any issues whatsoever. Others might want a brake to help with recoil. Others see the cool factor in some medieval looking nonsense and strap that hunk of steel on. If I was to suggest anything, this is one of the last items I’d replace. Stick with an A2 in the beginning and replace as you desire later.

Triggers. I covered this already, but it’s worth mentioning again. One thing about the fire control group (as it’s formally known) is to be wary of the unknown manufacturers that have a “can’t miss deal” with triggers. I stick to known brands like ALG Defense, Geissele, Wilson Combat and Timney. If in doubt, do some research. Like in depth research on something you think about buying. Don’t go with the first review that pops up.

And magazines…there are always new magazine manufacturers out there coming up with the “next best thing!” There’s three different types of magazines out on the market: aluminum, steel and polymer. Aluminum mags I tend to stick with Brownells, D&H, Okay Industries and NHMTG. Steel I’ll stay with E-Lander, H&K (pricey though), ASC or PRI. Polymer stay with Magpul and Lancer. If it says Tapco, walk away. If it says ProMag, pour gasoline on it, strike a match and run. Be extremely wary of new brands of polymer mags that hit the market. Buy once, cry once.

Wait, wait, wait! What about that rail?!

I didn’t forget that. First you need to determine whether or not you want to go with a front sight base (A frame) or a gas block. A gas block ends up allowing the rifle to be smooth all the way from the charging handle to the muzzle. A true “flat top” upper receiver. This allows magnified scopes to be mounted and used. Or standard red dot optics with a flip up front sight. Additionally, the “rail” system, or handguards can extend to nearly the muzzle as well. Depending on what you want, this can be helpful in mounting (or not) additional goodies on the front end of the rifle.

Now an A frame is practically bulletproof. I have yet to see one that broke (so long as it’s pinned to the barrel) from normal use unless it’s driven over with a tank. Some cheap imitations that don’t pin can (and inevitably will) loosen over time and cause cycling problems. But when it comes to reliability, the A frame cannot be beat.

Now the rails themselves. The standard and what most manufacturers use is the 1913 standard attachment system. It’s a ladder looking deal on the handguards. Or others have sections that can be placed at certain points and moved around as needed. There are really three types of mounting points currently in use: The standard 1913 system in which the rails are already there (or screwed in), the Keymod system (looks like a big circle with a little on top) and the Magpul M-Lok system (looks like a longer slot in the handguards). Again, personal preference in which you buy, but accessories can get expensive over time. Again, stick to known brands and get the reviews on which you are looking to buy.

I’m sure I haven’t covered everything, but it’s a decent start. If you have any additional questions, feel free to ask as there are plenty of us on here that can give you advice.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 people
#123
#123
InVOLuntary said:
I was contemplating that until these guys pointed out that it was balistically similar to a 30/30.
Click to expand...

If you get a silencer for it, the shots are almost whisper quiet like in the movies. I don't see an advantage to it unless you're planning on close quarters combat. That being said, if I had the money, I'd definitely get one and get the silencer as well.
 
#124
#124
davethevol said:
If you get a silencer for it, the shots are almost whisper quiet like in the movies. I don't see an advantage to it unless you're planning on close quarters combat. That being said, if I had the money, I'd definitely get one and get the silencer as well.
Click to expand...

It's not subsonic is it?
 
New posts
You must log in or register to reply here.

VN Store



Back
Top