The Official 2nd Amendment Appreciation Thread

[InVOLuntary]

Thanks for the help... I'm certainly not loaded by any means, but the budget itself isn't a big problem. I think it's more of my "souped-up" desires... Billet receiver set, Giessele trigger, ARP barrel and bolt, G&R Tactical LPK, and the lost goes on....lol.

I guess my previous comment was aimed more at the possibility of being able to buy a complete one cheaper than building one at the rate I'm going! Lol...

It will be hard to find one with those specs. That's the beauty of building your own.

 

[KSPVol36]

Palmetto State Armory Ammunition, AR15 Parts, Magazines, Bulk Ammo - Palmetto State Armory

They have it all but not everything is a good deal.


Primary Arms

AR-15 & AK-47 Parts & Accessories | Primary Arms

I've gotten those Anderson Lowers for $39 from time to time. They have it all too.

Ground Zero Precision

www.groundzeroprecision.com

I've only gotten barrels from them and they've had a good selection and good deals. Customer service was very good too.

Monstrum Tactical

www.monstrumtactical.com

This is Chinese stuff but I've had good luck with the rails. They are very responsive and helpful. I screwed up a barrel nut, my fault. They sent me a new one, no questions asked, even though I owned up to the mistake. Covered postage too.

Other sources:

Fat boy tactical
Joe Bob outfitters
Aim supply

There are others but I can't seem to think of them right now.

If you want, I'll put together a parts listing.

That would be great if you don't mind... I'm building a 6.8SPC. I'm still considering the 6.5G per Grand's info, but for now I'm moving toward the 6.8SPC. Any thoughts would be appreciated...

 

[hndog609]

It will be hard to find one with those specs. That's the beauty of building your own.

Not sure exactly what you're looking for but I've never heard of anyone getting a WOA upper that wouldn't shoot. And by that I mean really well.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/shop/complete-uppers/6-8-spc-ii-varmint-uppers.html

The lower and everything else you could dress up any way you liked with minimal tooling.

 

[InVOLuntary]

That would be great if you don't mind... I'm building a 6.8SPC. I'm still considering the 6.5G per Grand's info, but for now I'm moving toward the 6.8SPC. Any thoughts would be appreciated...

OK, here you go. Grand may disagree and he if does, go with what he says. He's forgotten more since yesterday than my total knowledge on the subject.

Stripped Upper and lower. I am one to believe what you put into these are more important than the parts themselves. You can spend a bunch on these in billet and custom machinings and such. As I've said, I've used several of the Anderson stripped lowers and uppers. They are mil spec and AR not fancy but do the trick. I've paid as little as $39 and as much as $50 for the lower.

Lower parts kit. This has your mag release parts, safety parts, bolt release parts, buffer tube retention parts, assembly pins parts. You can get a lower parts kit that has it all but since you want an upgraded trigger you can find them without the trigger group. Same with the grip, you'll probably want something better than the mil spec grip. You can also source each part but that's a pain for me .

Trigger. Hundreds of options available. Grand turned me onto the Giesllee (sp?) SSA. It is a two stage trigger and I love it.

Buffer tube, buffer and spring. You can source this as a group or individually. You can even find them with the stock. I usually purchase the tube, buffer and spring as kit, mil spec, for simplicity. You'll also need the plate that goes on buffer tube.

Your upper parts can be purchased separately or as a kit. For simplicity, I usually order the forward assist and the dust cover as a kit.

Charging handle. You can spend as little as $10 for a no name mil spec to close to $100 for something fancy. This can easily upgraded later if you don't like what you get. You can go mil spec initially and upgrade when you find something you really like.

BCG. According to Grand, the only difference in the 556 and 6.8 is the actual bolt. That means you can purchase a 556 bcg and simply change out the bolt. I've seen 6.8 bcgs available if you want to just not fool with changing it out. I built a long range 556 found a nice NiBo BCG.

Barrel. Grand can help you here more than I. If you are as concerned about accuracy as you've stated, Grand can offer suggestions as to who makes the best match grade barrels. I bought a sweet stainless, spiral fluted barrel from ground zero precision that I've been pleased with.

Gas block and tube. If you go with a free float rail you'll want a low profile gas block. Nothing special here. If you go stainless on your barrel you may want to go with stainless on the gas block. As to the tube, nothing special here. Just make sure you get the correct length to match your barrel. They are usually in three lengths, pistol, carbine, or rifle. Almost forgot, you need a flash hider.

Rails. You can spend several hundred on just the rails. I've gotten a bunch of rails from Monstrum and have been pleased. You can get them in different colors. You can get the standard quad rails or you can get the "key mod" style. This allows you to have the picatiny rails just where you want/need them. The rails usually come with a barrel nut that matches the rail.

Tools. I recommend the AR bench block set. A bench vise for the above. It makes assembly much easier. You'll also need a AR tool, a torque wrench, a small ball pien hammer, a small plastic hammer, a set of roll pin punch sets, various Allen head drivers (I like the T handle style) and some screw drivers. Another tool that I got later but makes the roll pin install so much easier is a roll pin starter punch set.

You'll also need some assembly lube which is a Molly grease.

Have a tablet or a PC handy to watch YouTube videos on assembly.

 

[InVOLuntary]

Not sure exactly what you're looking for but I've never heard of anyone getting a WOA upper that wouldn't shoot. And by that I mean really well.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/shop/complete-uppers/6-8-spc-ii-varmint-uppers.html

The lower and everything else you could dress up any way you liked with minimal tooling.

Your talking about purchasing the upper complete and that's fine. I still consider it building if you put together the lower and adding a complete upper.

 

[hndog609]

Your talking about purchasing the upper complete and that's fine. I still consider it building if you put together the lower and adding a complete upper.

Oh yeah, that's where I was going. You can get a quality upper (the one I cited or not) and everything else is carte blanche to your whimsy.

 

[InVOLuntary]

Oh yeah, that's where I was going. You can get a quality upper (the one I cited or not) and everything else is carte blanche to your whimsy.

Gotcha.

 

[KSPVol36]

OK, here you go. Grand may disagree and he if does, go with what he says. He's forgotten more since yesterday than my total knowledge on the subject.

Stripped Upper and lower. I am one to believe what you put into these are more important than the parts themselves. You can spend a bunch on these in billet and custom machinings and such. As I've said, I've used several of the Anderson stripped lowers and uppers. They are mil spec and AR not fancy but do the trick. I've paid as little as $39 and as much as $50 for the lower.

Lower parts kit. This has your mag release parts, safety parts, bolt release parts, buffer tube retention parts, assembly pins parts. You can get a lower parts kit that has it all but since you want an upgraded trigger you can find them without the trigger group. Same with the grip, you'll probably want something better than the mil spec grip. You can also source each part but that's a pain for me .

Trigger. Hundreds of options available. Grand turned me onto the Giesllee (sp?) SSA. It is a two stage trigger and I love it.

Buffer tube, buffer and spring. You can source this as a group or individually. You can even find them with the stock. I usually purchase the tube, buffer and spring as kit, mil spec, for simplicity. You'll also need the plate that goes on buffer tube.

Your upper parts can be purchased separately or as a kit. For simplicity, I usually order the forward assist and the dust cover as a kit.

Charging handle. You can spend as little as $10 for a no name mil spec to close to $100 for something fancy. This can easily upgraded later if you don't like what you get. You can go mil spec initially and upgrade when you find something you really like.

BCG. According to Grand, the only difference in the 556 and 6.8 is the actual bolt. That means you can purchase a 556 bcg and simply change out the bolt. I've seen 6.8 bcgs available if you want to just not fool with changing it out. I built a long range 556 found a nice NiBo BCG.

Barrel. Grand can help you here more than I. If you are as concerned about accuracy as you've stated, Grand can offer suggestions as to who makes the best match grade barrels. I bought a sweet stainless, spiral fluted barrel from ground zero precision that I've been pleased with.

Gas block and tube. If you go with a free float rail you'll want a low profile gas block. Nothing special here. If you go stainless on your barrel you may want to go with stainless on the gas block. As to the tube, nothing special here. Just make sure you get the correct length to match your barrel. They are usually in three lengths, pistol, carbine, or rifle. Almost forgot, you need a flash hider.

Rails. You can spend several hundred on just the rails. I've gotten a bunch of rails from Monstrum and have been pleased. You can get them in different colors. You can get the standard quad rails or you can get the "key mod" style. This allows you to have the picatiny rails just where you want/need them. The rails usually come with a barrel nut that matches the rail.

Tools. I recommend the AR bench block set. A bench vise for the above. It makes assembly much easier. You'll also need a AR tool, a torque wrench, a small ball pien hammer, a small plastic hammer, a set of roll pin punch sets, various Allen head drivers (I like the T handle style) and some screw drivers. Another tool that I got later but makes the roll pin install so much easier is a roll pin starter punch set.

You'll also need some assembly lube which is a Molly grease.

Have a tablet or a PC handy to watch YouTube videos on assembly.

Awesome!! Thanks for the info... I'm definitely going to have to temper myself some. I see fancy things that I want, but I tend to agree that the shell isn't as important as the guts.

I may do this little-by-little just so that I don't get too carried away. I think I'll start with ordering the receivers and building from there.

Thanks again!!

 

[InVOLuntary]

Awesome!! Thanks for the info... I'm definitely going to have to temper myself some. I see fancy things that I want, but I tend to agree that the shell isn't as important as the guts.

I may do this little-by-little just so that I don't get too carried away. I think I'll start with ordering the receivers and building from there.

Thanks again!!

That's what I would do. You'll find deals from time to time and you can jump on them. Get on mailing list. Classic arms is another I forgot to mention. I get two or three emails a day from palmetto state armory.

Obviously the lower is the FFA item so you'll have to have it shipped to a dealer.

 

[LouderVol]

Too much gas, if you can adjust the gas pressure you should be good, let a professional help you out

It has seven settings, tried all of them. Always had some issue. When it was kicking rounds out they were coming out inconsistent as well. Some barely fell out others were traveling 4 feet on the same gas setting.

 

[LouderVol]

100 feet or yards?

Just feet. Fully intended on moving back once I had it dialed in. Had so many issues never felt it was worth backing up.

 

[hndog609]

It has seven settings, tried all of them. Always had some issue. When it was kicking rounds out they were coming out inconsistent as well. Some barely fell out others were traveling 4 feet on the same gas setting.

Run through this thread and see if it seems like it's your issue.

Cycling Problem/Casing Ejection Inconsistent [Archive] - The FAL Files

 

[DancingOutlaw]

It has seven settings, tried all of them. Always had some issue. When it was kicking rounds out they were coming out inconsistent as well. Some barely fell out others were traveling 4 feet on the same gas setting.

What type ammo are you shooting?

 

[Grand Vol]

OK, here you go. Grand may disagree and he if does, go with what he says. He's forgotten more since yesterday than my total knowledge on the subject.

Stripped Upper and lower. I am one to believe what you put into these are more important than the parts themselves. You can spend a bunch on these in billet and custom machinings and such. As I've said, I've used several of the Anderson stripped lowers and uppers. They are mil spec and AR not fancy but do the trick. I've paid as little as $39 and as much as $50 for the lower.

Lower parts kit. This has your mag release parts, safety parts, bolt release parts, buffer tube retention parts, assembly pins parts. You can get a lower parts kit that has it all but since you want an upgraded trigger you can find them without the trigger group. Same with the grip, you'll probably want something better than the mil spec grip. You can also source each part but that's a pain for me .

Trigger. Hundreds of options available. Grand turned me onto the Giesllee (sp?) SSA. It is a two stage trigger and I love it.

Buffer tube, buffer and spring. You can source this as a group or individually. You can even find them with the stock. I usually purchase the tube, buffer and spring as kit, mil spec, for simplicity. You'll also need the plate that goes on buffer tube.

Your upper parts can be purchased separately or as a kit. For simplicity, I usually order the forward assist and the dust cover as a kit.

Charging handle. You can spend as little as $10 for a no name mil spec to close to $100 for something fancy. This can easily upgraded later if you don't like what you get. You can go mil spec initially and upgrade when you find something you really like.

BCG. According to Grand, the only difference in the 556 and 6.8 is the actual bolt. That means you can purchase a 556 bcg and simply change out the bolt. I've seen 6.8 bcgs available if you want to just not fool with changing it out. I built a long range 556 found a nice NiBo BCG.

Barrel. Grand can help you here more than I. If you are as concerned about accuracy as you've stated, Grand can offer suggestions as to who makes the best match grade barrels. I bought a sweet stainless, spiral fluted barrel from ground zero precision that I've been pleased with.

Gas block and tube. If you go with a free float rail you'll want a low profile gas block. Nothing special here. If you go stainless on your barrel you may want to go with stainless on the gas block. As to the tube, nothing special here. Just make sure you get the correct length to match your barrel. They are usually in three lengths, pistol, carbine, or rifle. Almost forgot, you need a flash hider.

Rails. You can spend several hundred on just the rails. I've gotten a bunch of rails from Monstrum and have been pleased. You can get them in different colors. You can get the standard quad rails or you can get the "key mod" style. This allows you to have the picatiny rails just where you want/need them. The rails usually come with a barrel nut that matches the rail.

Tools. I recommend the AR bench block set. A bench vise for the above. It makes assembly much easier. You'll also need a AR tool, a torque wrench, a small ball pien hammer, a small plastic hammer, a set of roll pin punch sets, various Allen head drivers (I like the T handle style) and some screw drivers. Another tool that I got later but makes the roll pin install so much easier is a roll pin starter punch set.

You'll also need some assembly lube which is a Molly grease.

Have a tablet or a PC handy to watch YouTube videos on assembly.

A lot of good info here, I'll add a few things when I get back on my laptop.

 

[volinbham]

Sorry but carrying a gun "loose" in a purse is not a very good idea.

Agree with that - cover that trigger

 

[Grand Vol]

OK, here you go. Grand may disagree and he if does, go with what he says. He's forgotten more since yesterday than my total knowledge on the subject.

I am certainly not all knowing and others can certainly contribute, including InVol.

Stripped Upper and lower. I am one to believe what you put into these are more important than the parts themselves. You can spend a bunch on these in billet and custom machinings and such. As I've said, I've used several of the Anderson stripped lowers and uppers. They are mil spec and AR not fancy but do the trick. I've paid as little as $39 and as much as $50 for the lower.

When one doesn't know which direction they want to go with said rifle, it's best to just get a plain old basic AR lower receiver and go from there. Billets are nice and all, but you can get just about the same effect with a Magpul trigger guard.

Lower parts kit. This has your mag release parts, safety parts, bolt release parts, buffer tube retention parts, assembly pins parts. You can get a lower parts kit that has it all but since you want an upgraded trigger you can find them without the trigger group. Same with the grip, you'll probably want something better than the mil spec grip. You can also source each part but that's a pain for me .

Agree with InVol here. It's easier to pick up a lower/upper parts kit than to try to piece it together. Sometimes, not often, you can find them without the grip, so it saves a bit. Otherwise, just think of the issue grip as "packing material" and move forward with buying something you like better.

The only piece I tend to single source is the grip screw. I positively hate, HATE, HATE slotted screws. So I picked up a pack of hex head screws for the grip and never looked back.

Trigger. Hundreds of options available. Grand turned me onto the Giesllee (sp?) SSA. It is a two stage trigger and I love it.

For a match grade trigger, my first go to is the Geissele as InVol said. If you are looking at a "combat" style trigger, I'd suggest the ALG Defense QMS or ACT. Otherwise, it comes down to preference.

Buffer tube, buffer and spring. You can source this as a group or individually. You can even find them with the stock. I usually purchase the tube, buffer and spring as kit, mil spec, for simplicity. You'll also need the plate that goes on buffer tube.

One correction on this. Always buy 7075 aluminum receiver extensions. Don't go cheap and buy a 6061 or think you can get by with just a carbine buffer. If shooting a 6.8, I'd suggest at least an H2 buffer.

Charging handle. You can spend as little as $10 for a no name mil spec to close to $100 for something fancy. This can easily upgraded later if you don't like what you get. You can go mil spec initially and upgrade when you find something you really like.

I think one of the best items to look at is the Bravo Company Mod 4 charging handle. Honestly, it's a preference and one can get by with a standard one, but I'm of the mind buy once, cry once.

BCG. According to Grand, the only difference in the 556 and 6.8 is the actual bolt. That means you can purchase a 556 bcg and simply change out the bolt. I've seen 6.8 bcgs available if you want to just not fool with changing it out. I built a long range 556 found a nice NiBo BCG.

Yep. Just make sure the bolt is properly tested with MPI and HPT.

Barrel. Grand can help you here more than I. If you are as concerned about accuracy as you've stated, Grand can offer suggestions as to who makes the best match grade barrels. I bought a sweet stainless, spiral fluted barrel from ground zero precision that I've been pleased with.

Depends greatly on how much you want to spend. If accuracy is desired, my first choice is White Oak Armament. Wilson Combat isn't far behind. I hear good things about Bison Armory as well.

Tools. I recommend the AR bench block set. A bench vise for the above. It makes assembly much easier. You'll also need a AR tool, a torque wrench, a small ball pien hammer, a small plastic hammer, a set of roll pin punch sets, various Allen head drivers (I like the T handle style) and some screw drivers. Another tool that I got later but makes the roll pin install so much easier is a roll pin starter punch set.

I'd actually recommend the Magpul BEV Block myself. One side for the upper, one side for the lower.

You'll also need some assembly lube which is a Molly grease.

Available at most auto parts stores.

 

[KSPVol36]

I am certainly not all knowing and others can certainly contribute, including InVol.



When one doesn't know which direction they want to go with said rifle, it's best to just get a plain old basic AR lower receiver and go from there. Billets are nice and all, but you can get just about the same effect with a Magpul trigger guard.



Agree with InVol here. It's easier to pick up a lower/upper parts kit than to try to piece it together. Sometimes, not often, you can find them without the grip, so it saves a bit. Otherwise, just think of the issue grip as "packing material" and move forward with buying something you like better.

The only piece I tend to single source is the grip screw. I positively hate, HATE, HATE slotted screws. So I picked up a pack of hex head screws for the grip and never looked back.



For a match grade trigger, my first go to is the Geissele as InVol said. If you are looking at a "combat" style trigger, I'd suggest the ALG Defense QMS or ACT. Otherwise, it comes down to preference.



One correction on this. Always buy 7075 aluminum receiver extensions. Don't go cheap and buy a 6061 or think you can get by with just a carbine buffer. If shooting a 6.8, I'd suggest at least an H2 buffer.



I think one of the best items to look at is the Bravo Company Mod 4 charging handle. Honestly, it's a preference and one can get by with a standard one, but I'm of the mind buy once, cry once.



Yep. Just make sure the bolt is properly tested with MPI and HPT.



Depends greatly on how much you want to spend. If accuracy is desired, my first choice is White Oak Armament. Wilson Combat isn't far behind. I hear good things about Bison Armory as well.



I'd actually recommend the Magpul BEV Block myself. One side for the upper, one side for the lower.



Available at most auto parts stores.

Wow! Great info here guys...thank you both very much. As I said before, I'm a bit of an enthusiast, but all help is appreciated. I will certainly heed the advice given herein.

One question about the barrel.... What do you guys know/think about AR Performance? I've read they are currently the top-of-the-line for 6.8 barrels, and they happen to be a TN company--Morristown.

 

[InVOLuntary]

The only piece I tend to single source is the grip screw. I positively hate, HATE, HATE slotted screws. So I picked up a pack of hex head screws for the grip and never looked back.

All the lower parts kits I've been getting, mostly Anderson, have had the hex head grip screw. I've never gotten a slotted screw. I hate slotted screws for everything.

 

[BEATBAMA12]

Agree with that - cover that trigger

My wife hasn't had any issues carrying in her purse or me carrying in my pocket with the pocket holster, it takes some training to be able to draw promptly and safely in any position, this galco has a hook that snags the corner of your pocket or purse, the trigger is covered and the gun fits tightly in the holster no worries here.

 

[SDV]

Agree with that - cover that trigger

Agreed. My CCW instructor said to NEVER carry a gun without being in its holster

 

[BEATBAMA12]

Agreed. My CCW instructor said to NEVER carry a gun without being in its holster

Cmon folks they make very good holsters for purse and pocket carry, I agree keep that trigger covered, but how else would my 5'3" 120 pound wife who never wears a belt is going to hide anything but a derringer on her hip, iwb holsters print way too much and winter time is the only time she can carry owb by covering with a jacket or sweater, then agin she never wears a belt, she tried belly bands but the still bulge on her hip, the cc under garments are far much harder to access and point the muzzle at bad places , in her purse the gun is always pointed down and trigger covered.

 

[KSPVol36]

Agreed. My CCW instructor said to NEVER carry a gun without being in its holster

As a CCDW instructor myself, I agree that a person should never carry a weapon "loosely." However, I think it's important that each person learn how he or she can safely and quickly access the weapon in the event it's needed. Different people like different things and it boils down to preference. I tell female students that carrying in their purse is acceptable (in slip-holster at a minimum) as long as they keep it in the same place ALL of the time. It's important to know and train yourself on where the weapon is and how to access it quickly.

I'm training, repetition is key... The reason military and LE are proficient at using weapons is the amount of training they do. Not to say people in the civilian sector don't train a lot as well, but it's not as common. So, when a person decides which type type of carry is best for themselves, my advice is simple: train, train, train; practice, practice, practice.

 

[hndog609]

Cmon folks they make very good holsters for purse and pocket carry, I agree keep that trigger covered, but how else would my 5'3" 120 pound wife who never wears a belt is going to hide anything but a derringer on her hip, iwb holsters print way too much and winter time is the only time she can carry owb by covering with a jacket or sweater, then agin she never wears a belt, she tried belly bands but the still bulge on her hip, the cc under garments are far much harder to access and point the muzzle at bad places , in her purse the gun is always pointed down and trigger covered.

I think that was the distinction being made...the difference between truly "loose" carry (just chucking a firearm into purse or pocket) vs having it in some kind of holster. I like the Desantis Nemesis for pocket carry.

 

[volinbham]

Cmon folks they make very good holsters for purse and pocket carry, I agree keep that trigger covered, but how else would my 5'3" 120 pound wife who never wears a belt is going to hide anything but a derringer on her hip, iwb holsters print way too much and winter time is the only time she can carry owb by covering with a jacket or sweater, then agin she never wears a belt, she tried belly bands but the still bulge on her hip, the cc under garments are far much harder to access and point the muzzle at bad places , in her purse the gun is always pointed down and trigger covered.

All I was saying was it should be in a holster in the purse - not that the purse was the problem. Wasn't clear it was in a holster in the original post. Sounds like it is. :hi:

 

[InVOLuntary]

One correction on this. Always buy 7075 aluminum receiver extensions. Don't go cheap and buy a 6061 or think you can get by with just a carbine buffer. If shooting a 6.8, I'd suggest at least an H2 buffer.

Grand, are you talking about the buffer tube here being constructed of 7075?