Kayak

#2
#2
Looking to get a kayak to go fishing in. Can anybody recommend me on the best ones to get?
Ponds, lake, slow river, some whitewater, small creeks, BUDGET, etc? Too many options to answer that question. Seriously , there are a hundred decent fishing kayaks out there from $400 to $4000. Narrow your search, then consider starting with a pre-owned boat. Plenty of good ones available from folks looking to upgrade or especially those who jumped in and now don't use the kayak as much as they thought they would.
 
#3
#3
Ponds, lake, slow river, some whitewater, small creeks, BUDGET, etc? Too many options to answer that question. Seriously , there are a hundred decent fishing kayaks out there from $400 to $4000. Narrow your search, then consider starting with a pre-owned boat. Plenty of good ones available from folks looking to upgrade or especially those who jumped in and now don't use the kayak as much as they thought they would.
Mainly back river channels and creeks and ponds.
 
#4
#4
Make sure the seat is comfortable to sit in! I purchased a F&S sit on top from Dicks and the first time out my legs fell asleep, got back to the bank and had to roll out of it and drag my butt up the bank. Went and got a Bass Pro Ascend with the elevated seat and can use it for hours with no problem.
 
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#7
#7
I've heard good things about Jacksons (esp in terms of the seat comfort, stability for casting while standing, etc) and the few I've tested out a while back seemed to confirm that. I had a ~14' Malibu X-factor that was my ocean and marsh boat for a while...it was also stable (and handled like a battleship) but was great for standing up and casting in salt marshes...I'm guessing that would be somewhat similar environs to some of your pond and creek fishing, but depending on how narrow the creeks are, a more maneuverable kayak (10-12' range) would likely be better for you.

All that said, the Vibe kayaks that others mentioned look pretty dang appealing (now I want one).
 
#8
#8
Make sure the seat is comfortable to sit in! I purchased a F&S sit on top from Dicks and the first time out my legs fell asleep, got back to the bank and had to roll out of it and drag my butt up the bank. Went and got a Bass Pro Ascend with the elevated seat and can use it for hours with no problem.

Definitely get one that is stand up or with an elevated seat.
 
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#9
#9
Hobie - the Mirage drive is a game changer. Quite expensive but they hold their value
 
#11
#11
Hobie - the Mirage drive is a game changer. Quite expensive but they hold their value
Hobie is great for big water and traveling long distance, but way too heavy and bulky to maneuver in small streams and ponds. If you need to launch and take out on a steep bank or haul it over any distance, you will quickly trade or buy another kayak to compliment the "barge".
 
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#12
#12
Hobie is great for big water and traveling long distance, but way too heavy and bulky to maneuver in small streams and ponds. If you need to launch and take out on a steep bank or haul it over any distance, you will quickly trade or buy another kayak to compliment the "barge".
Sorry to sound so negative about your opinion of Hogue and should have added IMO to start the reply. You are correct that they are a great boat and hold value, but do require a significant investment for someone just starting out in the sport. My apologies.
 
#14
#14
Don’t get one that’s too heavy....

You raise a great point; if the idea is to outfit a beast of a kayak with rod holders, boxes, coolers, for a full day on the water (plus maybe a wheeled cart to get it from a vehicle to the water) it's an entirely different thing than having a kayak that you can throw on top of a car pretty quick, chunk a couple of rods and a small tackle bag in, and get moving.

When I bought my big 'ol X-factor, I had grand designs of outfitting the thing to the hilt but based upon my actual usage, I enjoyed (and used) my Old Town sit-in much more often because it was more agile (from both a logistics and on-water standpoint).
 
#15
#15
You raise a great point; if the idea is to outfit a beast of a kayak with rod holders, boxes, coolers, for a full day on the water (plus maybe a wheeled cart to get it from a vehicle to the water) it's an entirely different thing than having a kayak that you can throw on top of a car pretty quick, chunk a couple of rods and a small tackle bag in, and get moving.

When I bought my big 'ol X-factor, I had grand designs of outfitting the thing to the hilt but based upon my actual usage, I enjoyed (and used) my Old Town sit-in much more often because it was more agile (from both a logistics and on-water standpoint).
A buddy of mine has a really nice kayak, but it’s heavy. It’s ok if you’re somewhere that’s an easy launch point, but even with his cart it can be a bit much if you have to go down a path or steep trail to get to the water. It’s not great doing some of the creeks either. It is good on rivers and lakes though. I’ve got an old sit in Perception that I’ve had for 15 years. It’s great on the Caney Fork and the creeks I float and only weighs 28 lbs
 
#16
#16
What weight do you consider heavy?
My one man only weighs 28 lbs and my two man is 56 or 65..... not sure. I know 56 pounds doesn’t sound heavy, but it’s awkward to carry due to it being 13 ft long. Kayak carts are pretty cheap and make moving them around really easy. Both of mine were cheap and I’ve had them so long now I’ll just drag them across the gravel bars and etc. I’ve figured out there almost indestructible.
 
#17
#17
My one man only weighs 28 lbs and my two man is 56 or 65..... not sure. I know 56 pounds doesn’t sound heavy, but it’s awkward to carry due to it being 13 ft long. Kayak carts are pretty cheap and make moving them around really easy. Both of mine were cheap and I’ve had them so long now I’ll just drag them across the gravel bars and etc. I’ve figured out there almost indestructible.
Mine weighs about 80 pounds. I have wheels I attach to roll it.
 
#18
#18
Looking to get a kayak to go fishing in. Can anybody recommend me on the best ones to get?
If you’re looking at a sit in for fishing, you need to consider how the seat is configured with regard to access behind it. Look at the area behind the seat on this one. You can’t reach behind it with your hands.... and there are gaps under the seat and on each side of it. A small tackle box will slide through the gaps and irritate the heck out of you. You’ll have to pull over, get out and tilt it up. The second one below is similar to mine. You can use the area behind the seat for jackets/gear or whatever. I bought some Velcro and glued two strips on the two raised areas right in front of the seat and on the back of my tackle box..... works great.D5F591D3-CA23-4C57-A583-66BEE779F037.jpeg37B78913-966D-4D1B-A073-2A614CDD212A.jpeg
 

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#21
#21
Sorry to sound so negative about your opinion of Hogue and should have added IMO to start the reply. You are correct that they are a great boat and hold value, but do require a significant investment for someone just starting out in the sport. My apologies.

No sweat - can't argue with what you said
 
#22
#22
I have a 10 and a 12, I would recommend a 12’ just for ease of maneuvering and stability. You can find yourself making weird casts or presenting different ways and you need the stability to not make things more difficult. You need to consider how you want to get the kayak to the water, how to carry your gear, and what gear to take. For instance an anchor is more useful if you have an anchor line running the length of the boat so you can get nosed into a current more easily. Brush anchors are also handy if you’re fishing slow channels or want to get out on the bank. Most decent kayaks have at least two rod holders in the back plus whatever you’re going to set up in front of you. If you’re fly fishing you’ll need a different mount. I got a couple see through totes that fit under the elastic cord so I know what’s where. You can get into some serious spending on kayaks, just check some forums to see the rigs guys have and what would work for you.
 
#23
#23
I have a 10 and a 12, I would recommend a 12’ just for ease of maneuvering and stability. You can find yourself making weird casts or presenting different ways and you need the stability to not make things more difficult. You need to consider how you want to get the kayak to the water, how to carry your gear, and what gear to take. For instance an anchor is more useful if you have an anchor line running the length of the boat so you can get nosed into a current more easily. Brush anchors are also handy if you’re fishing slow channels or want to get out on the bank. Most decent kayaks have at least two rod holders in the back plus whatever you’re going to set up in front of you. If you’re fly fishing you’ll need a different mount. I got a couple see through totes that fit under the elastic cord so I know what’s where. You can get into some serious spending on kayaks, just check some forums to see the rigs guys have and what would work for you.
I prefer fishing out of my two man due to its extra length. It tracks better and I can put my cast net, aerated minnow bucket and cooler in the front seat. When I hit some of the larger creeks I go with the one man due to it being easier to navigate through the twists and turns... and occasional strainer.
 
#24
#24
I would look at a Vibe or Perception, and go with the sit on top, cheaper than a Jackson
 

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