Honda Issues

#28

Coug

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#28
You’re in luck. I take my MDX (267K miles) to Dennis Hall Automotive. Honda/Acura specialist. Great people and do great work. Ask for Russell.
Ok, long overdue update.

I took it to Dennis Hall and they cleared the line and said it had some debris in it. He told me to drive the car until you burn some gas up and can try and refill it and see if the gas pump stops again. Sure enough it was still cutting off. I took it back a second time and they narrowed it down to either the valve or the canister being bad. Total to repair this was quoted at $540. Russell said if it was his car he wouldn't pay that. Neither did I so for the time being they popped the line and its venting straight out bypassing both parts. Im only out $100 for the semi complete diagnostic I guess. It'll eventually throw that p1457 code again now. The canister from Honda is $178 and the valve from Honda is $81. So I guess I'll be doing this myself now. Would you guys actually mess with the true honda parts in this case or would you go cheaper with aftermarket? Recommendations? Would you replace the valve first since its cheapest and then maybe the canister?
 
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#29

Vol737

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Feb 2, 2011
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#29
Ok, long overdue update.

I took it to Dennis Hall and they cleared the line and said it had some debris in it. He told me to drive the car until you burn some gas up and can try and refill it and see if the gas pump stops again. Sure enough it was still cutting off. I took it back a second time and they narrowed it down to either the valve or the canister being bad. Total to repair this was quoted at $540. Russell said if it was his car he wouldn't pay that. Neither did I so for the time being they popped the line and its venting straight out bypassing both parts. Im only out $100 for the semi complete diagnostic I guess. It'll eventually throw that p1457 code again now. The canister from Honda is $178 and the valve from Honda is $81. So I guess I'll be doing this myself now. Would you guys actually mess with the true honda parts in this case or would you go cheaper with aftermarket? Recommendations? Would you replace the valve first since its cheapest and then maybe the canister?
I would defer to Russell on parts. A lot of good after market manufacturers out there, but I know sometimes Russell will definitely use genuine Honda parts, other times he steers me away and doesn’t think it’s worth it. Might want to stop by an Advanced Auto/AutoZone or something like that and ask those guys. I usually find them to be very knowledgeable and have a good handle on aftermarket parts.
 
#30

Tin Man

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#30
Never had more than regular maintenance for my 2000 Accord coupe until the motor failed on the driver’s side window. Had that fixed at a independent shop specializing on Hondas.

In 2019, I traded it in on a new RAV4 hybrid. The RAV4 has an issue with fuel flow to the tank. I received a letter this year to have that problem fixed at no charge. I’m going to a dealer for that one.
 
#31

Coug

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#31
Well this is fun! Took my car for a car wash tonight and when I was done I looked over to the passenger side floor and saw this. Never was this a problem before. I have never noticed it got wet when it rained either. Yep, that is soap foam from the drive-thru car wash.
 

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#32

VolFaninFla

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Sep 1, 2013
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#32
So lately I have been having an issue with the fuel evap system on my 2000 Honda Accord. The first symptom was difficulty filling up the fuel tank because the pump kept shutting off. Fast forward a week ahead and my car throws a P1457 error and I could smell slight gas fumes coming from the front end. I called my local shop and they said they could take a look at it but don't have the diagnostic machine to truly work on it. Upon inspection they found a small hole in one of the tubes and swapped out the bad tube for a new piece. This cleared the engine light and I can no longer smell fumes. A few days later I need to get gas. I'm still having issues with the gas pump shutting off so I'm afraid it might actually be the charcoal canister? I called Honda and they want $128 in labor and the canister is another ~$170. This was just me talking to them on the phone I have not taken the car in yet. The car has ~157K miles on it give or take.

Any suggestions, recommendations other than Honda?
Not sure if any of these videos help but you can search. This guy is very helpful.
https://m.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEA&search_query=scotty+kilmer+2000+honda+accord+
 
#34

itsme

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Oct 8, 2010
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#34
Ok, long overdue update.

I took it to Dennis Hall and they cleared the line and said it had some debris in it. He told me to drive the car until you burn some gas up and can try and refill it and see if the gas pump stops again. Sure enough it was still cutting off. I took it back a second time and they narrowed it down to either the valve or the canister being bad. Total to repair this was quoted at $540. Russell said if it was his car he wouldn't pay that. Neither did I so for the time being they popped the line and its venting straight out bypassing both parts. Im only out $100 for the semi complete diagnostic I guess. It'll eventually throw that p1457 code again now. The canister from Honda is $178 and the valve from Honda is $81. So I guess I'll be doing this myself now. Would you guys actually mess with the true honda parts in this case or would you go cheaper with aftermarket? Recommendations? Would you replace the valve first since its cheapest and then maybe the canister?
I would buy parts from Rock Auto. Just priced 1 front rotor for my wife's Accord from Advanced $85. Bought 4 rotors and pad's on Rock Auto for $185 total took 1 1/2 weeks to arrive but well worth it. If you can drive it for a bit, that's the route I would go.
 
#35

Carl Pickens

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#35
Well this is fun! Took my car for a car wash tonight and when I was done I looked over to the passenger side floor and saw this. Never was this a problem before. I have never noticed it got wet when it rained either. Yep, that is soap foam from the drive-thru car wash.
I had this happen to an Infiniti I35 once.... there was a drain line that was clogged.
 
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