Home Brewers

[SamRebel35]

Thanks Sam, I hope my noob questions aren't a bother for you. What is the best device for bottling out of a fermenting bucket?

Doesn't bother me at all.

You can get an auto siphon and some hose to fit it for $10.00 and just auto siphon the beer into a bottling bucket (same bucket as the fermenter, but it has a spigot at the bottom). You should have your priming sugar mixture in the bottling bucket before racking the beer to that bucket. Then once all the beer is in the bucket, gently gently gently stir to incorporate the priming sugar throughout (stir gently to avoid oxidizing your beer). Then take the hose and attach it to the spigot at one end and a bottling wand at the other. Then fill up the bottles with the wand. As always sanitation is key at every step for anything that comes in contact with the beer.

 

[orange parmejohn]

Doesn't bother me at all.

You can get an auto siphon and some hose to fit it for $10.00 and just auto siphon the beer into a bottling bucket (same bucket as the fermenter, but it has a spigot at the bottom). You should have your priming sugar mixture in the bottling bucket before racking the beer to that bucket. Then once all the beer is in the bucket, gently gently gently stir to incorporate the priming sugar throughout (stir gently to avoid oxidizing your beer). Then take the hose and attach it to the spigot at one end and a bottling wand at the other. Then fill up the bottles with the wand. As always sanitation is key at every step for anything that comes in contact with the beer.

Can't I just siphon into bottles and reduce oxygen exposure?

 

[SamRebel35]

Can't I just siphon into bottles and reduce oxygen exposure?

I suppose you could if you use priming tablets directly into the bottle. I have heard bad stories using those, though. I've never used them. I have always done the priming sugar dissolved and boiled in water and then rack the beer in to the bottling bucket with it.

 

[SamRebel35]

Can't I just siphon into bottles and reduce oxygen exposure?

Also, I've never used the auto siphon with the bottling wand. Sounds like it could get tricky.

 

[orange parmejohn]

Also, I've never used the auto siphon with the bottling wand. Sounds like it could get tricky.

I understand what you are saying. My first brew, I funneled priming sugar into the bottles. Tablets seem to have a bad rep. My whole deal is cutting costs. I'm on a meager budget and another bucket is more $. Not expensive, I realize. Sam what is your signature brew?

 

[SamRebel35]

I understand what you are saying. My first brew, I funneled priming sugar into the bottles. Tablets seem to have a bad rep. My whole deal is cutting costs. I'm on a meager budget and another bucket is more $. Not expensive, I realize. Sam what is your signature brew?

I don't really have a signature brew. There's a single malt single hop ipa that I've done a couple of times (making small changes from batch to batch) to try to isolate different flavors and tinker with it to see what differences there are between different processes and ingredients.

 

[orange parmejohn]

The guy at brew store said that in his opinion, I was suggested the wrong yeast for my simple ale brew. I used English ale yeast. Any thoughts about that, Sam?

 

[SamRebel35]

The guy at brew store said that in his opinion, I was suggested the wrong yeast for my simple ale brew. I used English ale yeast. Any thoughts about that, Sam?

I just used English ale yeast this past batch. First time using it, so I have no opinion of it yet. If your beer comes out tasting good, then who cares what the brew store guy says. If it tastes like crap, make a note of it and try a different yeast next time.

 

[orange parmejohn]

I just used English ale yeast this past batch. First time using it, so I have no opinion of it yet. If your beer comes out tasting good, then who cares what the brew store guy says. If it tastes like crap, make a note of it and try a different yeast next time.

True story and he pretty much said the same. Did say that it doesn't clean up the beer well.

 

[SamRebel35]

True story and he pretty much said the same. Did say that it doesn't clean up the beer well.

That may be. Take about half of your bottled beers and save them for a long time maybe a couple of months. See if they are better or cleaner than the first half that you drank. My bet is that the longer conditioned bottles will be noticibly better.

 

[orange parmejohn]

Sam what do you think about ceramic bottle caps? I have 22 oz bottles and will only be filling a few of them. My budget is tight this week and probably can't swing a bottle capper just yet. Will ceramic caps fit any bottle? I saw bags of them at the brew shop.

 

[SamRebel35]

Sam what do you think about ceramic bottle caps? I have 22 oz bottles and will only be filling a few of them. My budget is tight this week and probably can't swing a bottle capper just yet. Will ceramic caps fit any bottle? I saw bags of them at the brew shop.

I have never used them. I have a capper.

 

[orange parmejohn]

Sam is there a gadget out there to strain sediment from beer when pouring from the bottle?

 

[SamRebel35]

Sam is there a gadget out there to strain sediment from beer when pouring from the bottle?

You could try coffee filters, but that sediment might be too fine, and you would probably get a pretty yeasty taste from it even if most of it filtered. I just pour slowly and keep an eye on the sediment influenced areas and just end the pour before the bulk of it gets to the opening.

 

[SaluteToTheHill]

I understand what you are saying. My first brew, I funneled priming sugar into the bottles. Tablets seem to have a bad rep. My whole deal is cutting costs. I'm on a meager budget and another bucket is more $. Not expensive, I realize. Sam what is your signature brew?

What I used to use for bottling was a plastic trash can. You can pick one up for a couple bucks at the dollar store. I would not advise adding priming sugar to bottles. At best you will have inconsistent carbonation, at worst you will have some bottle bombs.

 

[SaluteToTheHill]

Howdy Sam. I guess I'm thinking more of a just a good winter brew that's daring enough to remember but not so daring that no one can forget. Haha. I will give that site a look

Check out some of these.

Ale Extract Kits : Northern Brewer

 

[orange parmejohn]

What I used to use for bottling was a plastic trash can. You can pick one up for a couple bucks at the dollar store. I would not advise adding priming sugar to bottles. At best you will have inconsistent carbonation, at worst you will have some bottle bombs.

I ended up with some sediment suspended in my brew after auto siphoning into my brew bucket. Not a ton but I think some of it made it through the bottling wand.

 

[SaluteToTheHill]

I ended up with some sediment suspended in my brew after auto siphoning into my brew bucket. Not a ton but I think some of it made it through the bottling wand.

Did you use a secondary fermenter? Helps to clean the beer up. I typically do one week in the primary, 2 weeks in the secondary. Then if I were bottling I would rack to bottling bucket with priming sugar. You will get some sediment in the bottles, not a big deal. If you let them cold condition it will all drop out then just pour carefully and leave it in the bottle. Some people actually like that sediment. I have a friend that will pour all but about the last quarter in the glass and give the bottle a good swirl before pouring the rest so he gets all that mixed in. I prefer my beer clean and cold conditioning will do that for you.

 

[orange parmejohn]

Did you use a secondary fermenter? Helps to clean the beer up. I typically do one week in the primary, 2 weeks in the secondary. Then if I were bottling I would rack to bottling bucket with priming sugar. You will get some sediment in the bottles, not a big deal. If you let them cold condition it will all drop out then just pour carefully and leave it in the bottle. Some people actually like that sediment. I have a friend that will pour all but about the last quarter in the glass and give the bottle a good swirl before pouring the rest so he gets all that mixed in. I prefer my beer clean and cold conditioning will do that for you.

Brother what is cold conditioning? I don't secondary ferment. Seems the risk outweighs the reward.

 

[SamRebel35]

Brother what is cold conditioning? I don't secondary ferment. Seems the risk outweighs the reward.

Cold conditioning is just letting the beer sit in the fridge for a few weeks. Helps get rid of the green beer taste and helps clear it up.

 

[SamRebel35]

Hopvol, I made an all grain English ipa. Used American 2 row and then some darker specialty grains. Forgot which ones. East Kent golding for bitter and fuggle for taste and aroma. Then London ale yeast to ferment. I am wondering if I am misunderstanding what an English ipa should taste like, because this came out tasting somewhat like a pilsner or something similar. I've only tried it flat from the fermenter. I was expecting something a little bit more noticibly malty with some bitter hops profile (similar to American ipa). Did I miss the flavor profile, or was i mistaken on what it would taste like? How much do you think it will change when it carbs up?

 

[SaluteToTheHill]

Brother what is cold conditioning? I don't secondary ferment. Seems the risk outweighs the reward.

Like Sam said, cold conditioning is letting the beer rest at a cold temperature. It will cause proteins that cause haziness and dead yeast to drop out.

What are you worried about in using a secondary? I read some of your past posts and I assume maybe you're worried about oxidation. Unless you agitate the beer or rack with too short of a tube you're not going to oxidize the beer. I've been brewing for alot of years and I use a secondary for every batch I brew. With a secondary and cold crash I get damn near commercial beer clarity.

 

[SaluteToTheHill]

Hopvol, I made an all grain English ipa. Used American 2 row and then some darker specialty grains. Forgot which ones. East Kent golding for bitter and fuggle for taste and aroma. Then London ale yeast to ferment. I am wondering if I am misunderstanding what an English ipa should taste like, because this came out tasting somewhat like a pilsner or something similar. I've only tried it flat from the fermenter. I was expecting something a little bit more noticibly malty with some bitter hops profile (similar to American ipa). Did I miss the flavor profile, or was i mistaken on what it would taste like? How much do you think it will change when it carbs up?

The simple difference between English IPA and American IPA is typically the American version is going to be hoppier and can have a higher ABV. American versions will use Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, or Citra. Fuggles and Goldings are good choices for an English IPA. Sometimes English IPA will be very lightly hopped compared to most American versions. Some may even resemble a pilsner because you want a yeast with high attenuation so it will be dry and crisp. It sounds like you're looking for a little more hop flavor though. If its not there now it wont change much after carbing. If anything time will fade the hops.

Do you use software like BeerSmith? I would be interested what it said the IBUs should be for your recipe. It could be that you just need to bump up the amount of hops you add. I would also look at your grain bill. Try using Maris Otter for your base malt with a small amount of crystal and bit of something like victory or biscuit malt. The trick to a good English IPA is getting the right balance between malty sweetness and hop bitterness. London Yeast should be fine but you could also try White Labs WLP002 English Ale Yeast or WLP007 Dry English Ale Yeast.

As long as you like it that's all that really matters though unless your entering it in a competition. If its not exactly what you want but tastes like a pilsner Id say it could be worse, lol. Try to take good notes too. The beers I keep on tap are ones that I have developed over the years making small tweaks till I finally got them where I want them.

 

[SamRebel35]

The simple difference between English IPA and American IPA is typically the American version is going to be hoppier and can have a higher ABV. American versions will use Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, or Citra. Fuggles and Goldings are good choices for an English IPA. Sometimes English IPA will be very lightly hopped compared to most American versions. Some may even resemble a pilsner because you want a yeast with high attenuation so it will be dry and crisp. It sounds like you're looking for a little more hop flavor though. If its not there now it wont change much after carbing. If anything time will fade the hops.

Do you use software like BeerSmith? I would be interested what it said the IBUs should be for your recipe. It could be that you just need to bump up the amount of hops you add. I would also look at your grain bill. Try using Maris Otter for your base malt with a small amount of crystal and bit of something like victory or biscuit malt. The trick to a good English IPA is getting the right balance between malty sweetness and hop bitterness. London Yeast should be fine but you could also try White Labs WLP002 English Ale Yeast or WLP007 Dry English Ale Yeast.

As long as you like it that's all that really matters though unless your entering it in a competition. If its not exactly what you want but tastes like a pilsner Id say it could be worse, lol. Try to take good notes too. The beers I keep on tap are ones that I have developed over the years making small tweaks till I finally got them where I want them.

Actually, now that you said it, I think the yeast was English ale yeast, not London ale. No clue what difference that would make.

And this is my first time using a base malt other than marris otter. I do use beersmith, but this was just a recipe I found in a book and just followed it. Can't remember what the ibu's were supposed to be exactly, but it is a bit lower than the ipa recipe I've used before. I guess I'm just more surprised at the pilsner qualities of it. I was expecting something along the lines of Shipyard ipa, and it isn't even close. I must have mischatachterized Shipyard as an English ipa.

 

[orange parmejohn]

Like Sam said, cold conditioning is letting the beer rest at a cold temperature. It will cause proteins that cause haziness and dead yeast to drop out.

What are you worried about in using a secondary? I read some of your past posts and I assume maybe you're worried about oxidation. Unless you agitate the beer or rack with too short of a tube you're not going to oxidize the beer. I've been brewing for alot of years and I use a secondary for every batch I brew. With a secondary and cold crash I get damn near commercial beer clarity.

Maybe I have my wires crossed but is cold conditioning and what Sam calls cold crashing the same thing? And I've just read opinions about secondary fermenting which is worth nothing. For me, its a matter of equipment. I'm buying as I go.