Fuel Injector Problem

#1
kiddiedoc

kiddiedoc

Renaissance Man
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#1
This exact problem has happened twice to my Wrangler in three months:

First, I get an engine light accompanied by loss of engine power when I throttle past about 30%. Power returns after a couple seconds if I let off the gas.

This resolves after a day or two. Then, the engine light comes back, beeps, and I have a misfire with vibration and slight reduction in overall power.

I took it in back in Jan, the code read as an Injector 5 fault, and I had it replaced ($600).

Now, the same deal has recurred. I'm wondering if I've gotten bad gas, and maybe the initial problem is water/blockage at the fuel filter, which eventually clears, but then mucks up an injector. Does that sound plausible? I wouldn't think multiple injectors should fail at 60k miles. Also, is there a way to clean/clear them at home?
 
#2
#2
Is it just the one injector throwing a code? If it were something upstream it would seem likely others would not be happy...

I'd the code a circuit fault or a performance? If it was a performance then replacing the injector was a good call. Though only 60k is real low for an injector to crap out in my experience. You also got took to town on that cost to replace. I've replaced my own injectors on a Vue before at 1/5 that price in only an hour or two. Granted your engine config could make that proposition more daunting.

If it was a circuit fault, your best course would be to check connectivity between the injector and the ECM. Could be the wire talking to injector is faulty.

Might not be any of that, but if you don't have any other codes it's where I would start
 
#3
#3
kiddiedoc said:
This exact problem has happened twice to my Wrangler in three months:

First, I get an engine light accompanied by loss of engine power when I throttle past about 30%. Power returns after a couple seconds if I let off the gas.

This resolves after a day or two. Then, the engine light comes back, beeps, and I have a misfire with vibration and slight reduction in overall power.

I took it in back in Jan, the code read as an Injector 5 fault, and I had it replaced ($600).

Now, the same deal has recurred. I'm wondering if I've gotten bad gas, and maybe the initial problem is water/blockage at the fuel filter, which eventually clears, but then mucks up an injector. Does that sound plausible? I wouldn't think multiple injectors should fail at 60k miles. Also, is there a way to clean/clear them at home?
Click to expand...

1. It's a Chrysler product so your screwed

2. The problem is in the electrical/computer system and it's not going to be fixed. Almost the same thing happened to my wife's Jeep, never could get it fixed but figured out if I disconnected the battery the system would reset and it would be good for 1/2 a day or so. Got rid of that POS.
 
#4
#4
hog88 said:
1. It's a Chrysler product so your screwed

2. The problem is in the electrical/computer system and it's not going to be fixed. Almost the same thing happened to my wife's Jeep, never could get it fixed but figured out if I disconnected the battery the system would reset and it would be good for 1/2 a day or so. Got rid of that POS.
Click to expand...

If that's the case, why did replacing the other injector seem to fix the issue last time?
 
#5
#5
MSME Vol said:
Is it just the one injector throwing a code? If it were something upstream it would seem likely others would not be happy...

I'd the code a circuit fault or a performance? If it was a performance then replacing the injector was a good call. Though only 60k is real low for an injector to crap out in my experience. You also got took to town on that cost to replace. I've replaced my own injectors on a Vue before at 1/5 that price in only an hour or two. Granted your engine config could make that proposition more daunting.

If it was a circuit fault, your best course would be to check connectivity between the injector and the ECM. Could be the wire talking to injector is faulty.

Might not be any of that, but if you don't have any other codes it's where I would start
Click to expand...
I'll check in the morning on the code type.

I thought about trying to replace it myself last time, but there was something that looked tough about removing the rail (?) and needing a special tool. I'll watch a video tonight.
 
#8
#8
I have a Jeep Cherokee that went through 7 or 8 fuel pumps in a year before the root problem was identified as the stock fuel tank melting away due to the ethanol in the gasoline causing all of the pumps to fail. Chrysler should have been held accountable for that crap. Cars are engineered to fail around the time that they're paid off. We're gullible sheep.
 
#9
#9
VolNExile said:
Does one of the error codes translate into “Why do you still have a Jeep Wrangler?”

Sorry, I should not be unkind. Good luck with this.
Click to expand...
It's paid for, fun to get muddy, and I don't stress when one of the kids drags a bicycle across a door or drops a drink. I do really enjoy tooling around with the top down in the spring and fall.
 
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#10
#10
kiddiedoc said:
I'll check in the morning on the code type.

I thought about trying to replace it myself last time, but there was something that looked tough about removing the rail (?) and needing a special tool. I'll watch a video tonight.
Click to expand...
I would run a bottle of fuel injector through it when you get a tank of gas.
 
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#11
#11
Have you tried going to a jeep forum and sifting through it? I'm sure there are tons of them. That would seem like the best spot to look for steps in troubleshooting.
 
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#12
#12
eskimovol said:
Have you tried going to a jeep forum and sifting through it? I'm sure there are tons of them. That would seem like the best spot to look for steps in troubleshooting.
Click to expand...
I have. I couldn't ever find anything great on this issue. It looks like changing them at home is possible, but difficult.

The diagnostic read that #1 FI was bad, so I had them replace it. $430 (ouch). I might just do the other four (that haven't failed yet) myself one day. I can get the part for $60 online
 
#13
#13
kiddiedoc said:
I have. I couldn't ever find anything great on this issue. It looks like changing them at home is possible, but difficult.

The diagnostic read that #1 FI was bad, so I had them replace it. $430 (ouch). I might just do the other four (that haven't failed yet) myself one day. I can get the part for $60 online
Click to expand...

So just from a very brief browse I saw mention of making sure that your wiring ground are clean under the hood and that for another individual they had a bad battery, new one fixed it. Seems like alot of the folks that experienced your problem resulted from some portion of the wiring and because of the way the computer scans it doesnt take much to throw a code, hope that helps. On the possibility of it being fuel related though, I was always told to try to replace the fuel filter once a year. Very cheap and helps keep everything cleaner, I'm not a jeep guy but can't imagine it's that's much different than when I did it on my chevys, $15 part that only takes a few minutes to do.
 
#14
#14
Orange_Vol1321 said:
I would run a bottle of fuel injector through it when you get a tank of gas.
Click to expand...
That's what I was thinking. I like Lucas f.i. cleaner. Then, give it an Italian tuneup -- run it hard, reving it up, for a half hour or so, to blow some deposits out of the system.
 
#15
#15
Do you have the actual OBDII code? I didn’t know of a fuel injector specific code but I’m aware of misfire codes which could be as simple as a plug or plug wire.

Edit: ok I looked up the list yeah P0200 thru P0208. Reading the test it sounds like it monitors solenoid current or at least reasonable resistance for each injector. Could be the PCM, the wire harness, or the injector.

On Fords all of the sensors are generally pulled up to 5V and then when then aren’t actuated they should still be at 5V. Then the PCM pulls the signal low to open the injector. That’s how Ford generally detects bad sensors/solenoids like this.
 
Last edited:
#16
#16
eskimovol said:
So just from a very brief browse I saw mention of making sure that your wiring ground are clean under the hood and that for another individual they had a bad battery, new one fixed it. Seems like alot of the folks that experienced your problem resulted from some portion of the wiring and because of the way the computer scans it doesnt take much to throw a code, hope that helps. On the possibility of it being fuel related though, I was always told to try to replace the fuel filter once a year. Very cheap and helps keep everything cleaner, I'm not a jeep guy but can't imagine it's that's much different than when I did it on my chevys, $15 part that only takes a few minutes to do.
Click to expand...
It was definitely missing and had reduced power, so I know there was something physically wrong.
 
#17
#17
Thunder Good-Oil said:
I have a Jeep Cherokee that went through 7 or 8 fuel pumps in a year before the root problem was identified as the stock fuel tank melting away due to the ethanol in the gasoline causing all of the pumps to fail. Chrysler should have been held accountable for that crap. Cars are engineered to fail around the time that they're paid off. We're gullible sheep.
Click to expand...
LOL OK I couldn't let this one go by. If i was gonna buy one of the big three it would be a ford because of the bailout crap but that's just me. The FEDs have never offered to bailout one of my businesses due to my mismanagement just like I wont see a dime for the stuff we are going thru now.
Some are crap and engineered to fail. Gullible sheep keep giving good money for crap products IMO...I have owned 2 of the big 3 and I will not own another cause I'm a fast learner. I currently own 4 Toyotas from a 1993 -2008 with over 200000 miles on each ( the 93 has almost 300K) and probably have a total of $1000 of non routine maintenance for them all. I also have a 2016 Tundra 4x4 Crew cab with 80K miles and no issues with that either. Used to have spirited convo. with a grandfather (a union president who has long since passed) about buying US made stuff and I went out and showed him the Hencho in Mexico 49% sticker on his chevy astro van. 3 of my Toyotas were made in Kentucky and Texas by Americans that actually have quality management and don't screw their customers.

Not helping Kiddie doc with his issue but here's a great example: my 2005 4 runner that had 200K + miles in 2015 had a small (1/2-3/4 inch) split in the dash pad that had little glue seeping out of it. I received an unsolicited registered letter from Toyota USA saying they had been made aware of a problem with dash pads from 03-05 and they were going to extend warranty and cover the replacement. Just call your local dealer and schedule it at no cost. This is a vehicle with 10 years and 200000 miles since new that was warrantied for a cosmetic issue that did not affect safety or performance. I had to argue about replacing a transmission in a 95 Chevy Suburban with less than 36K that spent 3 months out of the first 2 years I owned it in the dealer shop with no loaner.Last big three one I bought. My brother is on his 3rd dually (2 chevy and 1 Dodge) since 2014 due to quality issues hes a slow learner but he pulls a 36 foot trailer so needs the Diesel which Toyota doesn't offer. He has used my Tundra when he was in bind once to tow 6 hours round trip.
I do own the 70 Chevelle in my Avi and spend alot of money on it not because I had to, but because I want to.;)
 
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#18
#18
kiddiedoc said:
This exact problem has happened twice to my Wrangler in three months:

First, I get an engine light accompanied by loss of engine power when I throttle past about 30%. Power returns after a couple seconds if I let off the gas.

This resolves after a day or two. Then, the engine light comes back, beeps, and I have a misfire with vibration and slight reduction in overall power.

I took it in back in Jan, the code read as an Injector 5 fault, and I had it replaced ($600).

Now, the same deal has recurred. I'm wondering if I've gotten bad gas, and maybe the initial problem is water/blockage at the fuel filter, which eventually clears, but then mucks up an injector. Does that sound plausible? I wouldn't think multiple injectors should fail at 60k miles. Also, is there a way to clean/clear them at home?
Click to expand...

You have a 4 door wrangler, correct?

Have you ever taken it over monteagle or through the smokies?

How does it handle on the highway going down steep grades?
 
#19
#19
I would go onto JK Forum and start a thread on this issue. There are some sharp guys over there and they can help with all types of issues.
 
#20
#20
NEO said:
You have a 4 door wrangler, correct?

Have you ever taken it over monteagle or through the smokies?

How does it handle on the highway going down steep grades?
Click to expand...
I've never had a problem with grades on the highway.
 
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#21
#21
kiddiedoc said:
I've never had a problem with grades on the highway.
Click to expand...
Just a guess didn't read everything but did you check plug wire. My number two plug wire I had with a crown vic use to go bad every few years out of the blue. If you turn your car on in the dark and see if any sparks coming from plug wires as well. I do know when cars sit the gunk in the gas can stop up fuel lines other than draining the gas and putting premium gas in it that's all I know. I'm no mechanic just passing on a few things I'd check. Good luck.
 
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#22
#22
Thunder Good-Oil said:
I have a Jeep Cherokee that went through 7 or 8 fuel pumps in a year before the root problem was identified as the stock fuel tank melting away due to the ethanol in the gasoline causing all of the pumps to fail. Chrysler should have been held accountable for that crap. Cars are engineered to fail around the time that they're paid off. We're gullible sheep.
Click to expand...
That's why Landcruisers are so expensive. Built heavy duty and built for 20-25 year runs. Sold my 89 at 300K miles still original and still going.
 
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