Please help! I need new brakes

#1
Jasongivm6

Jasongivm6

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#1
Does anyone in Chattanooga know anything about brakes? I need to pay either someone that can put them on for me, or take my ride to a brake shop. Any suggestions on the best brake shops? Midas? Budget Brakes? It's a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport. (I don't have a clue if the model and make matters, sorry) Thanks!!!
 
#2
#2
Disc brakes aren't hard to put on but I don't think I can explain it over the internet

I know that doesn't help. I'm sorry
 
#4
#4
Usually, I hear a "squeak." This last time, my brakes never squeaked to give me a warning. They went from fine to "Crunchhhhhh!" I just don't get it. Maybe planned obselence really does exist.
 
#5
#5
In your situation my advice would be to take it to Midas. You'll know you get the job done correctly in a reputable brake specialty shop which in a '01 model would be important. That and they'll do the job most likely quickly because that's their specialty.
 
#8
#8
I have no confidence in Midas or Mieneke or any of their ilk. They will try to do work you don't need, and are not that cheap. Ask around for a dependable local garage if you are not mechanically inclined.

As justin said, changing pads is relatively simple, and most rotors are easily changed. Your rotors may be turnable yet.

You can buy a shop manual at an auto parts store where many also lend/rent tools you may not have.

Basically you remove the wheels (use jack stands for safety), and then remove the calipers by removing two attaching bolts (about a 9/16 or 5/8 wrench size). You'll need something like an upturned bucket to set them on to avoid damaging the brake hose.

The pads typically have retaining springs or wires that pull out and allow them to be removed by pushing them out from the back. Make sure you note how the retainers go in and which pad goes in the outer and inner side. Often they are different.

Now the fun part, getting new pads in that are about an inch thicker than the old ones. They must be pushed in enough to allow a gap large enough for the rotor to fit in. BTW, you need to take the rotors in to a machine shop to see if they can be turned to give a smooth surface for the new pads to "bed" onto. To get the pads to go in you have to open the bleeders to allow displaced fluid to escape as the pistons are pushed into the calipers. I use c-clamps or Joint pliers to squeeze them in. Be aware brake fluid will squirt fairly forcefully from the bleeder.

After you get all the pieces back together, you will have to bleed the air out of each side by having someone pump the brake pedal, and then hold it down while you open the bleeder. You must tighten it without them letting the pedal up. Repeat this sequence until only fluid comes out. Make sure you keep the fluid level up in the reservoir while doing this, or you will suck more air into the system. Make sure you have a normal firm feel to the brake pedal.

This job takes me about an hour on most cars (not including waiting on rotors), but I've replaced pads on every car I've owned at least once.
 
#9
#9
Steve Ray's in Ooltewah is honest at least. Don't know what he'd charge. Broyle's post was excellent.
 
#10
#10
Go to Firestone over by Northgate mall in Hixson.. If you hear a grinding sound when you hit your brakes then you probably slipped a brake pad and depending on how long youve been driving on it the worse it will be so you may want to take it in as soon as possible
 
#11
#11
rbroyles said:
I have no confidence in Midas or Mieneke or any of their ilk. They will try to do work you don't need, and are not that cheap. Ask around for a dependable local garage if you are not mechanically inclined.
Click to expand...


Also your replacement pads will be junk, and you'll be barking up the same tree in another year or so, depending on your driving habits.

Hit up an independant garage, and odds are you'll get treated well. A small independant guy wants return business, so generally they'll do you right.
 
#12
#12
rbroyles said:
I have no confidence in Midas or Mieneke or any of their ilk. They will try to do work you don't need, and are not that cheap. Ask around for a dependable local garage if you are not mechanically inclined.

As justin said, changing pads is relatively simple, and most rotors are easily changed. Your rotors may be turnable yet.

You can buy a shop manual at an auto parts store where many also lend/rent tools you may not have.

Basically you remove the wheels (use jack stands for safety), and then remove the calipers by removing two attaching bolts (about a 9/16 or 5/8 wrench size). You'll need something like an upturned bucket to set them on to avoid damaging the brake hose.

The pads typically have retaining springs or wires that pull out and allow them to be removed by pushing them out from the back. Make sure you note how the retainers go in and which pad goes in the outer and inner side. Often they are different.

Now the fun part, getting new pads in that are about an inch thicker than the old ones. They must be pushed in enough to allow a gap large enough for the rotor to fit in. BTW, you need to take the rotors in to a machine shop to see if they can be turned to give a smooth surface for the new pads to "bed" onto. To get the pads to go in you have to open the bleeders to allow displaced fluid to escape as the pistons are pushed into the calipers. I use c-clamps or Joint pliers to squeeze them in. Be aware brake fluid will squirt fairly forcefully from the bleeder.

After you get all the pieces back together, you will have to bleed the air out of each side by having someone pump the brake pedal, and then hold it down while you open the bleeder. You must tighten it without them letting the pedal up. Repeat this sequence until only fluid comes out. Make sure you keep the fluid level up in the reservoir while doing this, or you will suck more air into the system. Make sure you have a normal firm feel to the brake pedal.

This job takes me about an hour on most cars (not including waiting on rotors), but I've replaced pads on every car I've owned at least once.
Click to expand...

You did a very good job explaining how to do it
 
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