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GreyWolf1129

Where's the hot sauce?
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I have the 9mm Glock mag one. It’s awesome
I'm stuck in..and okay with... the .45 and 5.56 world. Can't afford to add a third caliber in the amount of ammo I like to have in reserve. But there are some gorgeous 9mm options out there now that I'm gonna jump all over if Upper Management hits the lottery.

Get my G30S with the Pyramid trigger back tomorrow. Armorer called me this evening. He told me I'd be giggling after I shot it.

I don't giggle much. So we'll see.
 

bag12day

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Also, I've been meaning to post that I finally received my suppressor for my AR SBR in 300BO. I have to say I was disappointed in the noise reduction. If people are against removal of the suppressors from the NFA, they should go try and shoot a suppressed firearm. I probably would not have spent the money if I'd know that it was still that loud. I didn't expect James Bond quiet but I figured it would be much more suppressed. I first shot regular 300BO ammo and thought subsonic would be much quieter but after ordering and running some sub sonic through it, it' not that much quieter. To me it sounds about like a .22LR.
So my buddy who is my Class 3 dealer and I have compared some notes with a Chrono ( to make sure it wasn't a drop in muzzle velocity) and Decibel meter... I get a fair amount more noise reduction in my Ruger American Bolt rifle .308 than I do in my FNFAL .308. The same for Ruger AR22 LR vs my bolt ruger or semi auto Marlin and any AR platform in 5.56 compared to the .223 bolt gun. I use my suppressors mainly for hunting and have about given up shooting any AR platform while hunting cause the noise reduction is so much better in my others. Don't underestimate there is a fair difference in brand of suppressor too, as far as noise reduction IMO.
I am guessing here since I'm not a smith but the gas blowback and just the machining slap contributes to a fair amount of the noise. Funny thing is my Marlin semi auto with subs is still WAYYYYYY lighter than my RUger ar22. Squirrels previously sitting near my deer stand are very sad about this.
 

InVOLuntary

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So my buddy who is my Class 3 dealer and I have compared some notes with a Chrono ( to make sure it wasn't a drop in muzzle velocity) and Decibel meter... I get a fair amount more noise reduction in my Ruger American Bolt rifle .308 than I do in my FNFAL .308. The same for Ruger AR22 LR vs my bolt ruger or semi auto Marlin and any AR platform in 5.56 compared to the .223 bolt gun. I use my suppressors mainly for hunting and have about given up shooting any AR platform while hunting cause the noise reduction is so much better in my others. Don't underestimate there is a fair difference in brand of suppressor too, as far as noise reduction IMO.
I am guessing here since I'm not a smith but the gas blowback and just the machining slap contributes to a fair amount of the noise. Funny thing is my Marlin semi auto with subs is still WAYYYYYY lighter than my RUger ar22. Squirrels previously sitting near my deer stand are very sad about this.
Thanks for the feedback. I've since shot it some more and have changed my tune somewhat. It is quieter than what I thought to begin with. I let someone else fire it off while I was 20 or so feet away. It was a totally different experience. I think you are spot on with the action and how it affects the sound. I noticed how much quieter the gun was on last shot with empty mag bolt hold back. I can only imagine a bolt gun.

Another advantage is the the minimum muzzle climb and flash from the muzzle. I let my sister shoot and she thought it was a blast and wouldn't shoot my brothers AR afterwards. It is really a pleasant gun to shoot.

I've ordered some AR500 plate targets and I look forward to shoot at the steel. I was going to purchase a 4X8 sheet and cut it up, I own a plasma cutter but the sheet was $1200. I can purchase the targets off eBay for a lot less.
 

YankeeVol

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I'm stuck in..and okay with... the .45 and 5.56 world. Can't afford to add a third caliber in the amount of ammo I like to have in reserve. But there are some gorgeous 9mm options out there now that I'm gonna jump all over if Upper Management hits the lottery.

Get my G30S with the Pyramid trigger back tomorrow. Armorer called me this evening. He told me I'd be giggling after I shot it.

I don't giggle much. So we'll see.
I got rid of my .45 and went the 9mm route
 

GreyWolf1129

Where's the hot sauce?
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Yeah, the "45 -vs- 9mm" argument is tired. Years ago, the .45 held sway, but advances in ballistics closed the gap. Plus the 9mm is flatter and easier to control.

Still, the massive expansion of the 230 gr Federal HST is hard to ignore, and having been at two OIS's where (our) .45's were involved, and with two bad guys DRT...hard to step away from that round. To each their own. A .22 in the cranial vault is just as deadly, but a .45 anywhere in the torso is usually a showstopper. Nothing against the 9mm, but if I need a lucky hit to stop a fight, I'll take the .45.

FYI, we carry the G22 (.40) now for a duty gun. So I end up qualifying with the G22, my G30S as a backup, my RIA compact .45 as another backup, and my Colt 6721 for duty / SRT use. Long day at the range. Funny thing is, the "snap" of the .40 cal G22 is harder for me to get used to than the "thump" of both of my personal .45's. I shoot well...well, well enough to qualify with...all three, but that old cold iron RIA is usually the one I do best with. It eats the recoil, and has a light trigger.

As for my rifle...props to Grand Vol here...I'm drilling holes at 100 yards with an Aimpoint PRO. Far above my current skill level.

Bottom line: matters not if it's a .45, .40, or 9mm. As Colonel Cooper said, "fast is fine, but accurate is final."
 
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GreyWolf1129

Where's the hot sauce?
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Sorry, let me qualify the "SRT use" point. (a) I'm only part-time now, and (b) I don't train with our team on a regular basis. So they list me as a "backup", which means I'm usually the Team Lead on the standard 6-man stack, when they expand to deploy multiple teams at once. So, two 2-man clearing elements, then me, then the rear guard. So I'm essentially the comms link for the CP. In the last year, I've done maybe 4 entries, and all of those were no-knocks for roundup warrant service. I have full SRT gear, minus the SBR, so I carry and qualify with my personal AR. But my days of 3A armor and another 30 lbs of assault gear are coming to a close, and fast.

Thankfully, so far, when I get to the objective they're usually cuffed and blabbering. Seniority has it's advantages.
 

bag12day

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Thanks for the feedback. I've since shot it some more and have changed my tune somewhat. It is quieter than what I thought to begin with. I let someone else fire it off while I was 20 or so feet away. It was a totally different experience. I think you are spot on with the action and how it affects the sound. I noticed how much quieter the gun was on last shot with empty mag bolt hold back. I can only imagine a bolt gun.

Another advantage is the the minimum muzzle climb and flash from the muzzle. I let my sister shoot and she thought it was a blast and wouldn't shoot my brothers AR afterwards. It is really a pleasant gun to shoot.

I've ordered some AR500 plate targets and I look forward to shoot at the steel. I was going to purchase a 4X8 sheet and cut it up, I own a plasma cutter but the sheet was $1200. I can purchase the targets off eBay for a lot less.
10-4 Glad its coming around for you.

Here's some advice if you're a bit of a DIY guy. Find a local steel company ( builders and welders) and go talk to them. Most of the time they will have a scrap pile in the back where they have cut I beams on buildings or cut diag plates etc. They usually save it until they get enough to make it to the scrap yard for a little $. You can get it for free, trade or scrap value if you just ask. Make quite nice targets based on the size of the steel you could get tiny bears, chipmunks, turkeys etc.... cut out with your PC.
 

InVOLuntary

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10-4 Glad its coming around for you.

Here's some advice if you're a bit of a DIY guy. Find a local steel company ( builders and welders) and go talk to them. Most of the time they will have a scrap pile in the back where they have cut I beams on buildings or cut diag plates etc. They usually save it until they get enough to make it to the scrap yard for a little $. You can get it for free, trade or scrap value if you just ask. Make quite nice targets based on the size of the steel you could get tiny bears, chipmunks, turkeys etc.... cut out with your PC.
Yea, I work with metals in my business, primarily with Aluminum but also some steel. I have some scrap steel in various thickness. Problem is, to be safe, you need AR500 steel which it rare and unless the person you are buying it from knows for sure it's AR500, there's no way to tell for sure.

Here's a picture of some general steel that I cut down. We shot this from about 70 yards with 556 fmj.

14633.jpeg

As you can see, the round penetrated the plate roughly 1/2" deep. This plate was 1-1/4" thick. To be safe you really need AR500 steel and it needs to be 1/2" thick to shoot a center fire rifle at it.
 

bag12day

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Yea, I work with metals in my business, primarily with Aluminum but also some steel. I have some scrap steel in various thickness. Problem is, to be safe, you need AR500 steel which it rare and unless the person you are buying it from knows for sure it's AR500, there's no way to tell for sure.

Here's a picture of some general steel that I cut down. We shot this from about 70 yards with 556 fmj.

View attachment 187197

As you can see, the round penetrated the plate roughly 1/2" deep. This plate was 1-1/4" thick. To be safe you really need AR500 steel and it needs to be 1/2" thick to shoot a center fire rifle at it.

EDIT TO SAY I SEE U STATED FMJ 5.56 Sorry
wow that is interesting. I never asked TBH and the guy I got some from was somebody I would take offshore fishing on my boat or captain/mate for him on his when he took customers, so we did a little trading. Is there a difference between "general steel" and stuff used for Architectural steel? Most of what we used was from building steel like parts of I beams and the diagonal pieces that they used in corners and most of it was used for semi long range shooting 400-800 yards and we never had holes like that in from anything (30.06 7.62 .375) that I remember except a .50 BMG with armor piercing will make holes in anything! That gun belonged to guy who owned the land but I couldn't even afford the ammo! Was all that using ball or green tips?
 

InVOLuntary

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EDIT TO SAY I SEE U STATED FMJ 5.56 Sorry
wow that is interesting. I never asked TBH and the guy I got some from was somebody I would take offshore fishing on my boat or captain/mate for him on his when he took customers, so we did a little trading. Is there a difference between "general steel" and stuff used for Architectural steel? Most of what we used was from building steel like parts of I beams and the diagonal pieces that they used in corners and most of it was used for semi long range shooting 400-800 yards and we never had holes like that in from anything (30.06 7.62 .375) that I remember except a .50 BMG with armor piercing will make holes in anything! That gun belonged to guy who owned the land but I couldn't even afford the ammo! Was all that using ball or green tips?
There are all different alloys of steel. I'm not sure what General building structural steel would be. There is cold rolled steel, hot rolled steel, hardened, ect... The steel that I used was old elevator counter weight steel so since it was used solely for its weight, I seriously doubt it was anything but the most basic steel. They recommend AR500 for targets and as the caliber goes up, the thickness goes up.

As to what ammo we were using, I shot it first with 300BO, subsonic. It didn't dent or pit the surface at all. Then my brother shot his AR 556 with green tip. I told him I thought the green tip was light armour piercing but it wasn't labeled that way. That was all he had so I gave him some plain old American eagle fmj. It did exactly the same thing so I don't think his was light armour piercing. I believe light armour piercing rounds would have completely passed through.

On another note, most of the target manufacturers recommend that the target is angle down just a bit to cause the bullet to deflect toward the ground rather than absorbing all the energy. Also, they recommend hanging the target to allow the target to move. We drove that target we used into the ground.
 

bag12day

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There are all different alloys of steel. I'm not sure what General building structural steel would be. There is cold rolled steel, hot rolled steel, hardened, ect... The steel that I used was old elevator counter weight steel so since it was used solely for its weight, I seriously doubt it was anything but the most basic steel. They recommend AR500 for targets and as the caliber goes up, the thickness goes up.

As to what ammo we were using, I shot it first with 300BO, subsonic. It didn't dent or pit the surface at all. Then my brother shot his AR 556 with green tip. I told him I thought the green tip was light armour piercing but it wasn't labeled that way. That was all he had so I gave him some plain old American eagle fmj. It did exactly the same thing so I don't think his was light armour piercing. I believe light armour piercing rounds would have completely passed through.

On another note, most of the target manufacturers recommend that the target is angle down just a bit to cause the bullet to deflect toward the ground rather than absorbing all the energy. Also, they recommend hanging the target to allow the target to move. We drove that target we used into the ground.
We always hung ours with chain like swingset stuff on frames made from 2 inch welded pipe shaped like a swingset with 4 legs.
 

VolStrom

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I've been thinking about buying a revolver and the Ruger GP100 is standing out at me as what I want. I'm looking at the .357 with a 4" barrel anyone have anything good or bad to say about it or something that would be better for about the same price?
 

GreyWolf1129

Where's the hot sauce?
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I've been thinking about buying a revolver and the Ruger GP100 is standing out at me as what I want. I'm looking at the .357 with a 4" barrel anyone have anything good or bad to say about it or something that would be better for about the same price?
Years ago I had an SP101. Same, only different. Solid gun, but as you know, a .357 let's you know it's there when you pull the trigger. If you're good with that, then I'd say you could do a lot worse for more money.

Hope that helps.

Edit: I put Hogue combat grips on mine. Made a big difference.
 

DEFENDTHISHOUSE

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I've been thinking about buying a revolver and the Ruger GP100 is standing out at me as what I want. I'm looking at the .357 with a 4" barrel anyone have anything good or bad to say about it or something that would be better for about the same price?
The ruger is very nice. That being said, have a look at the re-introduced Smith and Wesson model 19.

Model 19 Classic | Smith & Wesson
 

Grand Vol

Official VN Armorer
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There are all different alloys of steel. I'm not sure what General building structural steel would be. There is cold rolled steel, hot rolled steel, hardened, ect... The steel that I used was old elevator counter weight steel so since it was used solely for its weight, I seriously doubt it was anything but the most basic steel. They recommend AR500 for targets and as the caliber goes up, the thickness goes up.

As to what ammo we were using, I shot it first with 300BO, subsonic. It didn't dent or pit the surface at all. Then my brother shot his AR 556 with green tip. I told him I thought the green tip was light armour piercing but it wasn't labeled that way. That was all he had so I gave him some plain old American eagle fmj. It did exactly the same thing so I don't think his was light armour piercing. I believe light armour piercing rounds would have completely passed through.

On another note, most of the target manufacturers recommend that the target is angle down just a bit to cause the bullet to deflect toward the ground rather than absorbing all the energy. Also, they recommend hanging the target to allow the target to move. We drove that target we used into the ground.
Cold rolled steel keeps the Wildlings out.
 

InVOLuntary

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All right you gun brothers, I am finally getting around to assemblingmy AR308 from Aero Precision. I've rounded up all my parts, still waiting on barrel and BCG. Should have those by the end of the week. Everything went pretty smoothly other than having to run a tap through the grip screw hole. I've come across a problem though and thought you guys might edumicate me. I bought a "commercial" 6 position buffer tube. I also bought a black hawk stock. The black hawk stock won't slide up on the tube. It was my understanding that the tube and the stock were cross compatible with the AR15. I'm not sure if the commercial tube is different. Any insight here? Is the commercial tube slightly larger OD?

Edit: I pulled a couple of my other ARs out and swapped the stocks back and forth. This stock is just out of whack. I'm going to send it back. It won't fit any of my other ARs and my other AR stocks fit the new tube.
 
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