Advice on buying a car

#26
#26
The Jetta diesels are tough to find. Civics are a dime a dozen it seems. I just looked at the optimas as well. That could be an option as well. I feel ya on getting rid of the truck. This will be the first time I've ever owned a car I didn't have to step up into.
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#27
#27
flyfishinvol said:
The Jetta diesels are tough to find. Civics are a dime a dozen it seems. I just looked at the optimas as well. That could be an option as well. I feel ya on getting rid of the truck. This will be the first time I've ever owned a car I didn't have to step up into.
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If the truck is paid for, keep it. Hard to live without one once you've had it for a while.
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#28
#28
I am usually a toyota/subaru owner. With that said I recently rented a car for a 10,000 mile road trip and I was given a 2011 Chevy Cruze. It was an LT model and had some zip with the turbo, but I averaged around 38 mpg on the highway. You said you were looking for good city mileage and I just saw they have an ECO model that gets close to 30 in the city. I have not been big on the american models for a decade plus, but I had a nice little car that I can honestly give props. It even did a wonderful job at taking impact from a Montana deer at 75 miles an hour and kept on chugging another 50 miles until I could reach civilization. The deer did not fair so well. So if your looking for something safe take a look at the Cruze models. You might even be able to find the car I destroyed on the market after they fix a few cosmetic blemishes.
 
#29
#29
I'm coming up on 56 yrs old, have had about 20 cars in my life and our 08 Toyota Prius hybrid is probably the best overall vehicle I've ever owned. I've had a couple Geo Metros and liked em a lot but you can't find em any more at a reasonable price. Same for Toyota Echos. For your money, you do have a chance at the VW diesels, but your best value might be what the poster above said about the Chev Cruze Eco's -- I have seriously considered that for next car.
 
#30
#30
Hondas and Toyotas are great, but IMO, they're a bit expensive for what they are. I know these aren't the most glamourous manufacturers, but Nissan, Kia, and Hyundai are great cars.

I can speak for Nissans: I have an '08 Versa hatchback. It's easily the best car I've ever had. It gets ~32 mpg, has a ton of leg and head room, plus a lot of nice features (smart key, CVT transmission, 6 airbags, etc.). I'm officially endorsing the Nissan Versa for a practical gas-saver.

The only thing I can complain about is that it has a TINY TINY TINY engine - it's not fast and it doesn't accelerate quickly. If you're not a crazy driver, it wouldn't be a problem, but seeing as how the OP had an F-150, I'm guessing they "need" to be going as fast as they can at all times.
 
#32
#32
Chris4Vols22 said:
Hondas and Toyotas are great, but IMO, they're a bit expensive for what they are. I know these aren't the most glamourous manufacturers, but Nissan, Kia, and Hyundai are great cars.

I can speak for Nissans: I have an '08 Versa hatchback. It's easily the best car I've ever had. It gets ~32 mpg, has a ton of leg and head room, plus a lot of nice features (smart key, CVT transmission, 6 airbags, etc.). I'm officially endorsing the Nissan Versa for a practical gas-saver.

The only thing I can complain about is that it has a TINY TINY TINY engine - it's not fast and it doesn't accelerate quickly. If you're not a crazy driver, it wouldn't be a problem, but seeing as how the OP had an F-150, I'm guessing they "need" to be going as fast as they can at all times.
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The CVT has something to do with why the car feels slow... Regular old clutch and manual five speed box is always the best choice. Total control over the engine at all times and engine braking in all gears to help save gas.

Nissans are decent, but they are typically put together either oddly or thoughtlessly, frequently difficult to work on (not always the case but usually) and are about halfway between American badges and Honda/Toyota in the reliability departments.

The reason Hondas and Toyotas are as expensive as they are is because they are almost always put together brilliantly, easiest and cheapest to work on and will last for freaking ever.

Over whole timelines, Toyota is my favorite mark evah, but in recent years Honda has pulled ahead by a few hairs in reliability, and lapped Toyota in style.
 
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#33
#33
The last 2 cars I have bought have been from a pre-owned car dealer. Both had around 30,000 miles on them. I basically got a 2005 Lexus 430LS for half the price it cost new, and a great deal on a 2009 toyota corolla. I will never by a new car again. Both these cars will easily last another 100,000 miles. I am done buying cars for probably 5 years.
 
#34
#34
YorkVol said:
If the truck is paid for, keep it. Hard to live without one once you've had it for a while.
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That's exactly what I did and I can vouch for it being a great option. I have a Silverado that I love and its just handy to have around. Its paid off, so I lose nothing by keeping it. Dropped it to "pleasure vehicle" or whatever State Farm calls it and run around in it on the weekends.



milohimself said:
The CVT has something to do with why the car feels slow... Regular old clutch and manual five speed box is always the best choice. Total control over the engine at all times and engine braking in all gears to help save gas.

Nissans are decent, but they are typically put together either oddly or thoughtlessly, frequently difficult to work on (not always the case but usually) and are about halfway between American badges and Honda/Toyota in the reliability departments.

The reason Hondas and Toyotas are as expensive as they are is because they are almost always put together brilliantly, easiest and cheapest to work on and will last for freaking ever.

Over whole timelines, Toyota is my favorite mark evah, but in recent years Honda has pulled ahead by a few hairs in reliability, and lapped Toyota in style.
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GET OUT OF MY HEAD!!


Seriously though, excellent post. Obviously spent some time around a lot of cars. My thoughts exactly.
 
#35
#35
Ill do some researching the versas and echos as well. My f-150 has 312000 miles and runs like a champ. I definitely don't drive it too hard. It just sucks driving 2000 miles a month and getting 15-17 MPG. Ill still hold on to my truck. Its benefit to me is well over what I could sell it for. I just need a car that will save me enough in monthly gas payments to cover monthly car payments. If I can get 30-35 MPG I can do that and slow down on the miles I put on my truck.
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#36
#36
flyfishinvol said:
Ill do some researching the versas and echos as well. My f-150 has 312000 miles and runs like a champ. I definitely don't drive it too hard. It just sucks driving 2000 miles a month and getting 15-17 MPG. Ill still hold on to my truck. Its benefit to me is well over what I could sell it for. I just need a car that will save me enough in monthly gas payments to cover monthly car payments. If I can get 30-35 MPG I can do that and slow down on the miles I put on my truck.
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Every Echo I see on the road seems to beat to shat. It makes me really think that their cheapness shows in how they seem to look the part. No factual information there but simply an observation.
 
#37
#37
It's mainly because of the fact that it was nearly exclusively a chick car when it came out... And lets face it, most womens cars are beat.
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#38
#38
I don't know if it's been mentioned, but the Honda Fit is an excellent little car that gets as good, or better mileage than the hybrids, is cheaper, and is infinitely more fun to drive. Scion xA's should be widely available in the used market as well.
 
#39
#39
I bought a 2010 Honda Fit base model manual transmission in March. Only accessories I got were door visors and a cargo cover. Absolutely loving it so far... And it's my first ever car with working air conditioning, which has been a blessing.
 
#43
#43
possumslayer said:
Check the price on hybrid batteries , thousand$!
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Yep. My buddy at work was considering one for his son till I told him to check up on maintenance costs. He looked around online and said they were rediculous. I'd rather get a regular civic that gets almost as good mileage but is cheaper to fix.
 
#45
#45
TheDeeble said:
Yep. My buddy at work was considering one for his son till I told him to check up on maintenance costs. He looked around online and said they were rediculous. I'd rather get a regular civic that gets almost as good mileage but is cheaper to fix.
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This is the only reason I would advise against buying a used Prius. You wouldn't know how the car was treated so that could be a risk. But, in general the NiCad batteries seem to be lasting a long time.

However, the Priuses in general were designed to be very easy to maintain. For example, changing the oil takes only a few minutes because the plug and filter are within an easy arms reach and you only have to jack up the car about 4 inches to get a pan under it. When I bought mine in 07, I got the extended warranty to cover the cost of the battery should it need replacing.
 
#46
#46
Mega bump. This will be my first time buying a vehicle so looking for advice.

My wife got rear ended tonight. No jokes, please. I already asked if she wanted to be a second time. Her trunk is caved in considerably, so we are assuming it’s totaled.

She is wanting a Hyundai Palisade. I’ve scanned a few apps and see that some dealerships still have 2020s on their lots. Will I get a good deal on one because they are looking to move it or is buying a used 19-20 a better bet? I’m not totally opposed to buying a new 21, but the price would have to be pretty good.

What should the first offer under sticker be and what can I expect to settle on? What are some tacked on fees that I can absolutely get away with refusing? Should I finance through one of my banks/credit union or through the dealership if they offer one of the no interest for a few years deals? What interest rate should I expect with a credit score between 750-800? Is a military discount worth asking for and is that something that I don’t pull out until they’ve put their best number forward? Any and all advice is welcome.

@YankeeVol, @txbo, and @tn4elvis, anything you care to share from your side of things?
 
#47
#47
Tri-CitiesVol said:
Mega bump. This will be my first time buying a vehicle so looking for advice.

My wife got rear ended tonight. No jokes, please. I already asked if she wanted to be a second time. Her trunk is caved in considerably, so we are assuming it’s totaled.

She is wanting a Hyundai Palisade. I’ve scanned a few apps and see that some dealerships still have 2020s on their lots. Will I get a good deal on one because they are looking to move it or is buying a used 19-20 a better bet? I’m not totally opposed to buying a new 21, but the price would have to be pretty good.

What should the first offer under sticker be and what can I expect to settle on? What are some tacked on fees that I can absolutely get away with refusing? Should I finance through one of my banks/credit union or through the dealership if they offer one of the no interest for a few years deals? What interest rate should I expect with a credit score between 750-800? Is a military discount worth asking for and is that something that I don’t pull out until they’ve put their best number forward? Any and all advice is welcome.

@YankeeVol, @txbo, and @tn4elvis, anything you care to share from your side of things?
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Don’t pay any addendum. That’s just straight profit.
I don’t know what Hyundai’s discounts/rebates are, but you can easily find them on the company site. You should get a better deal on any remaining ‘20s.
I’d used Navy Fed for both my new Chevy’s.
 
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#48
#48
Tri-CitiesVol said:
Mega bump. This will be my first time buying a vehicle so looking for advice.

My wife got rear ended tonight. No jokes, please. I already asked if she wanted to be a second time. Her trunk is caved in considerably, so we are assuming it’s totaled.

She is wanting a Hyundai Palisade. I’ve scanned a few apps and see that some dealerships still have 2020s on their lots. Will I get a good deal on one because they are looking to move it or is buying a used 19-20 a better bet? I’m not totally opposed to buying a new 21, but the price would have to be pretty good.

What should the first offer under sticker be and what can I expect to settle on? What are some tacked on fees that I can absolutely get away with refusing? Should I finance through one of my banks/credit union or through the dealership if they offer one of the no interest for a few years deals? What interest rate should I expect with a credit score between 750-800? Is a military discount worth asking for and is that something that I don’t pull out until they’ve put their best number forward? Any and all advice is welcome.

@YankeeVol, @txbo, and @tn4elvis, anything you care to share from your side of things?
Click to expand...
I would ask about military discount until after you get some other cuts.

Go in with a number and stick to it. They will work you to get under it.

One thing I wish I had been smart enough to do was I first wanted one car. Got them down pretty close to my number. They took off 20% or so trying to work. I couldnt make the numbers work. So looked at an older version. And got them to cut about 10% off. Should have pushed for closer to the 20.

Go big, see what you can talk them down on, and then see about getting same discount (or close) on a cheaper version.

Even if it's a lie dont be afraid to mention you are shopping around.

A good downpayment, more than 20%, is a strong selling point for you. Again go in with a number in mind, and work them. They are doing the same on you. Start saying you can bring 10 on the down. Then once you get numbers, what if them with your 20 or whatever.

I left feeling like such a fool paying too much and not talking them down more. Dont ever feel bad for them. If they arent some mom and pop they are fine. They will work you. They are good at it. Dont feel bad for walking if you arent comfortable.

FWIW I financed thru them and got 0 interest for the length of the loan.
 
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#49
#49
LouderVol said:
I would ask about military discount until after you get some other cuts.

Go in with a number and stick to it. They will work you to get under it.

One thing I wish I had been smart enough to do was I first wanted one car. Got them down pretty close to my number. They took off 20% or so trying to work. I couldnt make the numbers work. So looked at an older version. And got them to cut about 10% off. Should have pushed for closer to the 20.

Go big, see what you can talk them down on, and then see about getting same discount (or close) on a cheaper version.

Even if it's a lie dont be afraid to mention you are shopping around.

A good downpayment, more than 20%, is a strong selling point for you. Again go in with a number in mind, and work them. They are doing the same on you. Start saying you can bring 10 on the down. Then once you get numbers, what if them with your 20 or whatever.

I left feeling like such a fool paying too much and not talking them down more. Dont ever feel bad for them. If they arent some mom and pop they are fine. They will work you. They are good at it. Dont feel bad for walking if you arent comfortable.

FWIW I financed thru them and got 0 interest for the length of the loan.
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If I’m reading it correctly, the finance incentive for a 20 palisade is 0% for up to 5 years.

Great info.
 
#50
#50
YankeeVol said:
Don’t pay any addendum. That’s just straight profit.
I don’t know what Hyundai’s discounts/rebates are, but you can easily find them on the company site. You should get a better deal on any remaining ‘20s.
I’d used Navy Fed for both my new Chevy’s.
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Will do. I see a pretty good financing incentive on the 20 palisade If I’m reading this correctly.
 
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