Official Gramps' Memorial Eternal OT Thread

I tried to enact a 1 year rule, if it hasn't been used or worn in a year it gets tossed/sold. After I started pointing out some of the shoes I haven't seen her wear she went straight to the garage and my tool chests. She still doesn't understand the "a tool is for life" rule.

Why do people think Imelda Marcos was aberrant when it came to women and shoes?
 
I tried to enact a 1 year rule, if it hasn't been used or worn in a year it gets tossed/sold. After I started pointing out some of the shoes I haven't seen her wear she went straight to the garage and my tool chests. She still doesn't understand the "a tool is for life" rule.


You shouldnt bring so many home from work

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I need some help deciding how to fix a problem. Years ago when somebody installed a sump pump in this house, they just knocked a hole in the foundation wall and ran a 1.5 in ID hose through it. The hole is under a set of concrete steps so I can't get to the exterior without someone to lift off something like a 3ft x 3ft concrete slab. When it rains hard, the water pours in as near as I can tell around the hose - a lot of water. The cellar where the sump pump is is irregular but at least 15 ft sq, and the other night it was filling at least an inch per hour. The irony: if I didn't have a sump pump I probably wouldn't need a sump pump. I just lifted the pump out of the muck today - it wouldn't pump the other night but the motor works, so I'll clean it and see what happens. I installed a check valve that it was missing, but the old discharge hose broke while I was gone - apparently old and brittle despite appearances. That part is a no brainer to fix.

The important thing is trying to do something about the leak. First issue is I have to work on the inside which is not the correct side. Second is the concrete block is never going to dry out - it's 90%+ humidity down there. What are the chances of using backer rod and the concrete/mortar sealant that comes in a tube - is there a better way to start out? And will Flex Seal adhere to damp concrete block, or is that a waste of time? I was thinking about the first two to fill the gap and flex seal over it. Am I wasting my time?
 
I need some help deciding how to fix a problem. Years ago when somebody installed a sump pump in this house, they just knocked a hole in the foundation wall and ran a 1.5 in ID hose through it. The hole is under a set of concrete steps so I can't get to the exterior without someone to lift off something like a 3ft x 3ft concrete slab. When it rains hard, the water pours in as near as I can tell around the hose - a lot of water. The cellar where the sump pump is is irregular but at least 15 ft sq, and the other night it was filling at least an inch per hour. The irony: if I didn't have a sump pump I probably wouldn't need a sump pump. I just lifted the pump out of the muck today - it wouldn't pump the other night but the motor works, so I'll clean it and see what happens. I installed a check valve that it was missing, but the old discharge hose broke while I was gone - apparently old and brittle despite appearances. That part is a no brainer to fix.

The important thing is trying to do something about the leak. First issue is I have to work on the inside which is not the correct side. Second is the concrete block is never going to dry out - it's 90%+ humidity down there. What are the chances of using backer rod and the concrete/mortar sealant that comes in a tube - is there a better way to start out? And will Flex Seal adhere to damp concrete block, or is that a waste of time? I was thinking about the first two to fill the gap and flex seal over it. Am I wasting my time?

Am I remembering correctly, are you in chattanooga?
If so I know the guy who can solve your issue.
Unfortunately it isn’t me.
 
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I need some help deciding how to fix a problem. Years ago when somebody installed a sump pump in this house, they just knocked a hole in the foundation wall and ran a 1.5 in ID hose through it. The hole is under a set of concrete steps so I can't get to the exterior without someone to lift off something like a 3ft x 3ft concrete slab. When it rains hard, the water pours in as near as I can tell around the hose - a lot of water. The cellar where the sump pump is is irregular but at least 15 ft sq, and the other night it was filling at least an inch per hour. The irony: if I didn't have a sump pump I probably wouldn't need a sump pump. I just lifted the pump out of the muck today - it wouldn't pump the other night but the motor works, so I'll clean it and see what happens. I installed a check valve that it was missing, but the old discharge hose broke while I was gone - apparently old and brittle despite appearances. That part is a no brainer to fix.

The important thing is trying to do something about the leak. First issue is I have to work on the inside which is not the correct side. Second is the concrete block is never going to dry out - it's 90%+ humidity down there. What are the chances of using backer rod and the concrete/mortar sealant that comes in a tube - is there a better way to start out? And will Flex Seal adhere to damp concrete block, or is that a waste of time? I was thinking about the first two to fill the gap and flex seal over it. Am I wasting my time?
Is the only problem the current drain? Can you dig up a trench in the yard, pop a hole somewhere else in the foundation, and run a new drain?
 
Am I remembering correctly, are you in chattanooga?
If so I know the guy who can solve your issue.
Unfortunately it isn’t me.

No, I'm at my parent's old house in middle TN. If I can handle it, I will, but I may need professional help - in more ways than one on this one.
 
Is the only problem the current drain? Can you dig up a trench in the yard, pop a hole somewhere else in the foundation, and run a new drain?

My parents had an enclosed porch built over the old cellar door - originally one of those slanted things you used to see outside older houses. So when you drop down into the cellar there's only about a 3 foot space between the wall by the steps and the old foundation wall - and the outside steps occupy most of that. The water only runs in on that side of the steps into the cellar, so even if I relocated the pump and discharge to the other side, I'd still have to close the existing hole which is under the outside steps. And the other side has a big concrete tank that is apparently an old cistern, so it interferes with stuff on that side. This is an old house - built in 1918 - a lot of oak joists and studs. Even the interior walls are 1 x 6 inch wood boards running horizontally. If you can drive a nail, you can hang anything you want on a wall. It's just not easy to figure out how things were done sometimes. There are old insulators in the attic where individual electric wires were strung when electric power was first added.
 
Ok
Murfreesboro or Lebanon?
I’m going to find you some one.

Between Manchester and McMinnville - basically the middle of nowhere. My BIL is a contractor; right now he's planning to take a look next week at this and a couple of other things. He told me he helped my son with the drain several years ago when my son owned the house. I don't think either of them knew about the water leaking in - and it may be a new thing.
 
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Between Manchester and McMinnville - basically the middle of nowhere. My BIL is a contractor; right now he's planning to take a look next week at this and a couple of other things. He told me he helped my son with the drain several years ago when my son owned the house. I don't think either of them knew about the water leaking in - and it may be a new thing.
Ok
I’m on it.
Believe it or not you’re going to need a spray foam guy to solve the leaking issue. My guy here might be willing to travel. Can you get some pictures and post them here?
Edit: in this case injection foam guy
 
Mine also like to be the arbiter of stuff "I don't need" - some of which I didn't see and recover before it went in the garbage. Of course, she's taken over three bedrooms and closets since the kids grew up and moved out. Since I refused a few years ago to show her how to use my 18" chainsaw ... to trim bushes, she bought a set - smaller chainsaw, blower, and trimmer - none of which has ever been used. Rationality doesn't exist on that side of the chromosome barrier.
She must have some bush.


Wait...what??
 
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He wants to know if the stairs have started sinking yet?

No, nothing seems to have settled, and this work was probably done in the 1960s or early 70s. I probably will see if my BIL knows anyone local; but if not, I'll definitely check back with you - seems like a long way for someone to travel to fix this kind of problem. I don't know if the leak is new or if it was just ignored. I do know before my parents bought the house in the 50s that my aunt used to store canned goods down then, so I don't think it was prone to leaking then. I'd bet the hole outside under the steps is at ground level just like this is on the inside, and the major thing is the yard was never contoured away from the wall and nothing around the hole in the foundation was sealed.


PXL_20211015_015014387.jpg
 
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I did make a big blunder on that connecting hose when I used it to replace a leaky hose. It was down in the cellar, available, and seemed in OK condition - just dirty and stiff. Apparently some of the stiffness was that it was old and not as pliable as it should have been. Lesson learned.
 
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I did make a big blunder on that connecting hose when I used it to replace a leaky hose. It was down in the cellar, available, and seemed in OK condition - just dirty and stiff. Apparently some of the stiffness was that it was old and not as pliable as it should have been. Lesson learned.
Is there a rim board at the inside face of the block? To me the issue is that the penetration is so low. If sealing around the current opening doesnt work I would drill a new opening higher in the wall. Then you can just grout/mortar/concrete up the existing opening. Since you are already pumping water going up a foot or so shouldnt be an issue, at least if the pump is in decent shape I would think.

I cant remember if you mentioned it, but is the inside floor dirt? I am wondering if you dig a trench drain right inside that wall, and then pump that area too.
 
Welp, Dink Sr. had himself a minor stroke Wednesday. He's much better now but I'm on my way to Jackson to check him into rehab and spend the weekend there.

@W.TN.Orange Blood if you want your shot at the title, this is probably the longest you'll catch me in your neck of the woods.
Hope everything goes well for your pops, Dink.
 
Welp, Dink Sr. had himself a minor stroke Wednesday. He's much better now but I'm on my way to Jackson to check him into rehab and spend the weekend there.

@W.TN.Orange Blood if you want your shot at the title, this is probably the longest you'll catch me in your neck of the woods.
Hoping he makes a speedy recovery dink.
 
Welp, Dink Sr. had himself a minor stroke Wednesday. He's much better now but I'm on my way to Jackson to check him into rehab and spend the weekend there.

@W.TN.Orange Blood if you want your shot at the title, this is probably the longest you'll catch me in your neck of the woods.

Hope everything turns out okay, Dink.
 
Welp, Dink Sr. had himself a minor stroke Wednesday. He's much better now but I'm on my way to Jackson to check him into rehab and spend the weekend there.

@W.TN.Orange Blood if you want your shot at the title, this is probably the longest you'll catch me in your neck of the woods.

Sorry to hear that, Dink. Make sure he gets into rehab and works at it; that made all the difference with my brother in law. My wife is a nurse and a Nazi about that stuff; he lived with us for several months while rehabbing. In the end he did so much better than some of his buddies who had similar lifestyles. He's left with some vision loss, and some cognitive issues - but us old guys generally have some memory problems anyway,
 
Is there a rim board at the inside face of the block? To me the issue is that the penetration is so low. If sealing around the current opening doesnt work I would drill a new opening higher in the wall. Then you can just grout/mortar/concrete up the existing opening. Since you are already pumping water going up a foot or so shouldnt be an issue, at least if the pump is in decent shape I would think.

I cant remember if you mentioned it, but is the inside floor dirt? I am wondering if you dig a trench drain right inside that wall, and then pump that area too.

Yes, this is (without going down to check) three block courses below the rim joist. Because the cellar opening was originally outside, the area with the leak is walled - probably about 4 feet at the bottom and the top of the wall level with the ground where the leak is. What happens is water runs in and then goes over the top of the wall down the steps to the cellar floor. The floor is dirt. My brother and I dug out the sump pit years ago when my parents lived there and used a form to make the pit concrete - there's still a problem with mud from the floor though. The next time the water heater has to be replaced, I may look into pouring a floor, but access for that and getting water heaters in and out is an absolute nightmare now. The only good thing about that situation is if the WH leaks, it's just not a problem.

Other than the discharge coming out high at the back of the house and looking kludgey, moving the discharge up is definitely a great solution. I just can't believe whoever did the installation ran things out under the steps - maybe it sounded like a good idea at the time.
 

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